259 Studie / Articles Krejčovské cechy a jejich vliv na formování mužského venkovského oděvu ve střední Evropě 16. a 17. století Martin Šimša DOI: 10.21104/CL.2020.3.01 Tailors’ Guilds and Their Infuence on the Formation of Peasant Clothing for Men in Central Europe in the 16th and 17th Centuries Abstract During the 16th and 17th centuries, an extensive transformation of clothing habits took place in Central Europe. Te era of the national styles of clo- thing had concluded and was replaced by widespread preference of the highly fashionable Spanish – and later French – clothing sets. New garments were fully accepted mainly by nobles and, over time, also among burghers. Te question remains how and by whom they were passed on to the rural population. Our attention is focused mainly on urban tailors’ guilds, which had a dominant position in the production of urban as well as rural clothing, due to regulations. Teir creations are captured in several period depictions, and their abundance in towns as well as in the coun- tryside is evidenced by inventories of estates and bequests to orphans. Clothing constructions are included in tailors’ pattern books, which have been preserved in Czechia, Slovakia, Poland, Austria, and Germany. Te comparison of the three mentioned source types in this study brings new information about the formation, types, and representation of individual components of men’s clothing. Key words trousers, coat, men’s skirt, kaftan, cloak, tailors’ guild, tailors’ books, clothing patterns Acknowledgment Studie je výstupem projektu GAČR GA18-27465S „Městský a venkovský oděv střední Evropy v raném novověku, na základě studia cechovních knih krejčovských střihů“. Contact PhDr. Martin Šimša, Ph.D., Národní ústav lidové kultury, Zámek 672, 696 62 Strážnice, Czech Republik; e-mail: martin.simsa@nulk.cz. Jak citovat / How to cite Šimša, Martin. (2020). Krejčovské cechy a jejich vliv na formování muž- ského venkovského oděvu ve střední Evropě 16. a 17. století. Český lid 107, 259–307. doi:http://dx.doi.org/10.21104/CL.2020.3.01