GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA EXTRACT CREAM: EFFECTS ON SKIN PIGMENT “MELANIN” Naveed Akhtar, Haji M.Shoaib Khan Associate Professors, Faculty of Pharmacy and Alternative medicine, The Islamia University of Bahawalpur, Pakistan. Email: nakhtar567@hotmail.com shoaibkhan76@hotmail.com Amna Iqbal, Barkat Ali Khan, Sajid Bashir Faculty of Pharmacy and Alternative medicine, The Islamia University of Bahawalpur, Pakistan. Email: ipzaamna@yahoo.com barki.gold@gmail.com, sajidpharm@gmail.com Abstract—The current work aimed to formulate a stable w/o cream containing Glycyrrhiza glabra extract and studying its effects on skin pigment “melanin”. Glycyrrhiza glabra Extract obtained by concentrating the alcoholic extract of Glycyrrhiza glabra roots, was entrapped in the inner aqueous phase of W/O emulsion. Base containing no active material and a formulation containing ethanolic extarct of Glycyrrhiza glabra (1%) were prepared. Samples of base and formulation were stored at different accelerated conditions (8°C, 25°C, 40°C, 40°C+75%RH) for four weeks to predict the stability of creams. Base and formulation were stable at all accelerated conditions regarding color, liquifaction and phase separation. Both base and formulation were applied to the cheeks of human volunteers for four weeks. Different parameters of human skin like melanin, erythema were monitored every week to measure any effect produced by these creams. Significant decrease in skin melanin was produced by formulation, where as insignificant decrease in this skin pigment was observed by base. Both creams were good for sensory evaluation. Keywords- Glycyrrhiza glabra extract, W/O cream, Skin melanin, Erythema, Skin moisture, Skin sebum, Skin pH. I. INTRODUCTION Emulsions usually consist of mixtures of an aqueous phase with various oils and/or waxes. The liquid that is broken up into droplets is termed the internal or dispersed phase, whereas the liquid surrounding the droplets is known as the external or continuous phase, both phases are held together by a third component the surface active agent also referred to as emulsifier, which is necessary to stabilize the emulsion [1]. Most of products which are used in cosmetics are emulsions [2]. The basic components of these formulations are emulsifiers, humectants and viscosity modifiers. Additional value can be given to these formulations by including active ingredients with specific cosmetic effects [2]. Particularly advantageous cosmetic emulsion preparations are obtained when antioxidants are used as active ingredients [3]. There is a growing interest in natural antioxidants found in plants. Many antioxidatively acting compounds are isolated from natural herbs and spices (extracts) and used as potential antioxidants in cosmetics [4]. An extract of Glycyrrhiza glabra is rich of natural antioxidants. The best natural antioxidants in extract of Glycyrrhiza glabra are glycyrrhizin (glycyrrhizic acid) and flavonoids [5]. Glycyrrhiza glabra extract is obtained from the roots of Glycyrrhiza glabra by solvent extraction [6] method and then concentrating the extract [7] by rotary evaporator. Glycyrrhiza glabra extract is preserved by refrigeration and/or freezing. The role of Glycyrrhiza glabra extract on skin is mainly attributed to its antioxidant activity particularly to its potent antioxidants triterpene saponins and flavonoids [5]. Skin whitening [8], skin depigmenting [9], skin lightening [10, 11], antiaging, anti-erythemic [12], emollient [13], anti-acne [14] – [15] and photoprotection effects are mainly attributed to Glycyrrhiza glabra extract. Glycyrrhiza glabra extract is incorporated in internal aqueous phase of W/O emulsion. The aim of this study was to formulate a stable W/O cream and to measure the effects of this W/O cream of Glycyrrhiza glabra extract on different physiologic functions of skin particularly skin melanin as well as erythema, skin moisture, skin sebum, pH of human skin and Transepidermal water loss (TEWL). II. MATERIALS AND METHODS A. Materials Paraffin oil and coconut oil were obtained from Merck (Germany). Abil-EM 90 was purchased from Franken Chemical (Germany), Beeswax from Fluka (Switzerland), Glycerin from Lever Brothers (Pakistan), Lemon oil (Pakistan) while Distilled Water was prepared in the labs of Pharmacy department, the Islamia University of Bahawalpur, Pakistan. Extract of Glycyrrhiza glabra (ethanolic) was prepared in laboratory of Pharmacy department, the Islamia University of Bahawalpur, Pakistan. B. Methods 1) Preparation of Extract of Glycyrrhiza glabra Glycyrrhiza glabra roots were used as plant material. The identification of this plant was performed by Cholistan Institute of Desert Studies at The Islamia University of Bahawalpur, Pakistan. The Shade dried roots of Glycyrrhiza glabra (Family: Fabaceae) were taken, cleaned and ground in an electric grinder to have coarse powder. The powder was then passed through sieve number 60 and stored in a well-closed 434 2011 International Conference on Bioscience, Biochemistry and Bioinformatics IPCBEE vol.5 (2011) © (2011) IACSIT Press, Singapore