DEVELOPMENT OF COSMECEUTICAL PRODUCTS FROM NANO-SIZED ACTIVE COLOUR CONSTITUENTS OF RATANJOT, SEABUCKTHORN AND ANNATTO Original Article SWATI PAL, SUNITA MALHOTRA, SATYANARAYAN NAIK Indira Gandhi National Open University Email: answati000@gmail.com Received: 15 Jan 2016 Revised and Accepted: 30 Mar 2016 ABSTRACT Objective: The objective of this research was to develop the nano-particles of natural colours from Ratanjot root, Seabuckthorn pulp, and Annatto seeds and use them in cosmetic products. Multiple herbs were used to have a good mix of active colour constituents and have a possibility to create a range of shades in the final cosmetic formulation without any side-effects. Further, with nano-sizing of the colour constituents, we aimed to obtain better activity and enhanced performance in the final product. Methods: The extraction of natural colours from herbal source was carried out under controlled conditions of temperature (max. 50 °C) and pressure (50-60 mm of Hg) to minimize the loss of actives during the process. The colour fractions separated by solvent fractionation were nano- sized by ultra-sonication using polyethylene glycol 400 as additive to distribute uniformly in the formulation. Active colour components were analyzed by HPLC and Lovibond Tintometer to maintain the colour strength in cosmetic formulation. Results: The nano-sizing of natural colour (purplish red dye from Ratanjot root, oil of Seabuckthorn pulp) has resulted in giving an excellent gloss, spreadability and prevention of skin damage due to their good anti-oxidant property. The goodness of Seabuckthorn oil has rendered a special effect of rejuvenating the skin cells to retain their elasticity. Conclusion: The promising results of these formulations have encouraged us to go for pilot trials to extend the study on animal and human subjects for the skin-penetration and kinetics of their healing power. Keywords: Bixa orellana, Arnebia nobilis, Hippophae rhamnoides, Herbal lipstick, Herbal lip balm, Body Massage oil, Cosmetics, Carotenoids © 2016 The Authors. Published by Innovare Academic Sciences Pvt Ltd. This is an open access article under the CC BY license (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ ) INTRODUCTION These days, the usage of herbal cosmetics has increased many folds in personal care systems [1]. In the case of colour-based cosmetics like lip-care, foundation, etc., now people want to use natural colouring material instead of synthetic colours. In addition, they are also looking out for other effects like UV protection, anti-aging, even- toning, etc. to just the colourful shades and gloss. It has been found that there are natural colouring agents that can double up as a colour source and as a bioactive phytochemical. Using such natural colouring agents not only improves or maintain the status of skin without any side effects but also greatly helps men and women to look more impressive, beautiful and smart to a considerable extent [1]. These cosmetics provide health benefits that go far beyond the colouring properties alone. Colouring lips have been practiced since ancient times. In present days, the use of lipsticks has increased, and choices of shades, colour, texture, and lustre have been changed and have become wider [2]. The synthetic colouring dyes used in lipstick are dangerous on consumption in a mild form and can have effects like allergy, drying of lips, nausea, dermatitis and can be carcinogenic. Herbal colours are nontoxic with antimicrobial, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. These colours when added in different combinations, further shades can be obtained. Colours can be changed to different shades with organic and inorganic acid and bases [3]. Lip balm should not be considered equivalent to lip gloss with former being a product intended to use by both men and women. Herbal lip balms are formulated in an effort to produce a safe product for lip care. Herbal formulations of massage oils are being made to produce non- toxic and safe oil that can tone the muscles, heal the wounds, moisturize, sedate the skin that is sensitive to environmental hazards, strengthen the texture of skin and prevent premature aging. In this work, an attempt has been made to formulate lipsticks, lip balms and massage oil using the natural bio-active phytochemicals/colouring-agents extracted from Ratanjot, Annatto and Seabuckthorn, In the remaining part of this section, we give a brief description of these herbs. A rich source of natural red colourants based on naphthoquinone molecule is Arnebia nobilis Rech. f, commonly known as Ratanjot in India. The name Ratanjot is attributed to roots of the various Boraginaceous plant species. It is not only an important herbal drug of the indigenous system of medicine but also used to impart pleasing red colour to food oils and fats. Naturally occurring hydroxynaphthoquinones especially isohexenylnaphazarins commonly known as shikonin and alkanin are lipophilic red pigments which are known to have been isolated from the roots of various species of family boraginacea [4]. They form the main active constituents of this plant and also are responsible for its colour and therapeutic efficacy. They are reported to have antimicrobial, anticancerous, antitumor and wound healing properties [5, 6]. Bixa orellana Linn family (bixacae) commonly known as Annatto, is an evergreen shrub which grows up to 5-6 meters with peculiar reddish fruits enclosing 10-15 seeds. Bixin, a carotenoid also known as a seed specific pigment widely used in food and cosmetic applications, antioxidant properties of which are well-known [7]. Annatto extract is particularly useful because it is available in both water soluble and oil soluble form to produce orange, yellow and red hues [8]. Hippophae rhamnoides L. family (Elaeagnaceae) commonly known as Seabuckthorn, which grows widely in cold regions of Indian Himalayas, China, Russia, Europe and many countries has recently attracted the attention of the scientific community. The fruits and leaves of this plant are quite rich in anti-oxidants like vitamin C, E, carotenoids, flavonoids and sterols which have found application in the preparation of health protection food, drug, and cosmetic products. Sea buckthorn has been shown to have potent antioxidant activity [9, 10]. Seabuckthorn oil has a UV blocking property as well as emollient properties and it is an aid in promoting regeneration of tissues [11]. International Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences ISSN- 0975-1491 Vol 8, Issue 5, 2016