trials. The upholders of the law cut procedural corners to facilitate the case for the prosecution. Most prob- lematic was the admission in court of “spectral evi- dence,” allowing the testimony of the tormented girls about invisible specters to be used against the accused. This was allowed by English law, but most of the min- isters in Boston had grave doubts about such evidence, believing that the devil could easily impersonate an innocent person. Unfortunately, the clergy did not voice these qualms until it was too late. As a result, people were hanged on the basis of visions that only the prosecution’s witnesses could see. The girls who were at the center of the trials have come in for much criticism over the years. Ray sees them as traumatized victims, manipulated by the magistrates. Judicious and crammed with fascinating detail, Ray’s Satan and Salem is essential reading for anyone interested in the Salem witch trials. –-Daniel P. Murphy Hanover College Sex and Unisex: Fashion, Feminism, and the Sexual Revolution Jo B. Paoletti. Indiana University Press, 2015. In Sex and Unisex: Fashion, Feminism, and the Sex- ual Revolution, author Jo B. Paoletti brings together several strands of scholarship in her examination of how American cultural shifts impact gender roles and fashion, centering on the very brief late sixties fad of truly unisex fashion. Focusing on the 1960s and 1970s, Paoletti incorporates research from dress studies, social science, gender studies, history, media studies, and law —among others—to contextualize her examination of the many ways the three issues in her subtitle inter- twine. “Yes, fashion is fun,” she asserts in her intro- duction, “but clothing is also bound up with the most serious business we do as humans: expressing ourselves as we understand ourselves” (13). Though this complex and compelling book begins with a brief note acknowledging the author’s own gen- erational placement in the center of the cultural and trends described, Paoletti’s text is not structured as a linear history. Rather, she discusses the demographic changes that impacted both consumerism and the sex- ual revolution as a way to set the stage for her multi- faceted approach to the topic, and this is but one of the frameworks she establishes to allow a reader into her discussion. Drawing on the evolutionary concept of punctuated equilibrium as a model to help explain how fashion trends and ideas about gender roles change very gradually over long periods and then sometimes exhibit very rapid changes—which require adjustment and adaptation in the aftermath—she examines the multiple and sometimes recursive strands of cultural connections in thematic, clearly connected ways. Critical analysis of the impact three very different best sellers—Helen Gurley Brown’s Sex and the Single Girl (1962), Betty Friedan’s The Feminine Mystique (1963), and Helen B. Andelin’s Fascinating Woman- hood (1963)—had on modern ideas about femininity informs the book’s overall argument, as does her exam- ination of so many aspects of fashion and culture: cos- tume designs in film, trends covered in the fashion press, photo spreads in mail-order clothing catalogues, patterns published for at-home sewing, recommenda- tions in tomes on appropriate attire for the workplace, and an analysis of how male hairstyle trends were reflected in men’s sports and the popular press. Addi- tionally, descriptions of gendered expectations (that men show deference to authority and that women dis- play modesty) mix with intricacies of Title IX, class critiques of formality in dress, articulations of liberty in civil rights movements, and the economic impact of empty barbershops to take their place among the many disparate strands Paoletti weaves together into a cohe- sive analysis of her central question—which is of much more cultural significance than a reader might first assume. “Unisex clothing could be dismissed as just another trivial fashion trend,” she claims, “except that it coincided with heightened scientific, popular, and political attention to the differences between men and women, including the sources and consequences of those differences” (106). Thorough discussion of the nature-versus-nurture debates in science and social science and both theoreti- cal and practical understandings of gender identities intertwine with historical trends in children’s fashions in this text as well, and Paoletti situates current con- flicts about school dress codes—debates over whether ethnic hairstyles and female clothing are too distracting for the classroom—and other current hot-button issues such as the (seemingly incongruent) hypersexualiza- tion of young girls and a growing rejection of gender binaries into the overall context created here. She also fully situates her work in American culture. Not only does Paoletti draw on the work of important theorists as varied as bell hooks, Judith Butler, and Naomi Wolfe, but she also cites fashion historians and 104 Book Reviews