Citation: Tenuta, L.; Testa, S.;
Antinarelli Freitas, F.; Cappellieri, A.
Sustainable Materials for Jewelry:
Scenarios from a Design Perspective.
Sustainability 2024, 16, 1309. https://
doi.org/10.3390/su16031309
Academic Editor: Barbara Motyl
Received: 26 October 2023
Revised: 30 January 2024
Accepted: 31 January 2024
Published: 4 February 2024
Copyright: © 2024 by the authors.
Licensee MDPI, Basel, Switzerland.
This article is an open access article
distributed under the terms and
conditions of the Creative Commons
Attribution (CC BY) license (https://
creativecommons.org/licenses/by/
4.0/).
sustainability
Article
Sustainable Materials for Jewelry: Scenarios from a
Design Perspective
Livia Tenuta * , Susanna Testa, Francesca Antinarelli Freitas and Alba Cappellieri
Department of Design, Politecnico di Milano, 20158 Milan, Italy; susanna.testa@polimi.it (S.T.);
francesca.antinarelli@polimi.it (F.A.F.); alba.cappellieri@polimi.it (A.C.)
* Correspondence: livia.tenuta@polimi.it
Abstract: The complex nature of materiality describes the modern era and raises several questions,
especially regarding sustainability. With the significant expansion of science and industry, the variety
of materials available for designers is unlimited, and they are no longer forced to use materials that
are provided directly by nature. Therefore, artificial materials are becoming more popular, offering
new possibilities from a creative and innovative perspective. This introduces a new, challenging
context for the jewelry design practice that should provide a positive and more sustainable approach.
The paper aims to define future scenarios for sustainable materials for jewelry merging science and
design. Cutting-edge movements are experimentally operating at the intersections of varied fields,
occasionally deviating from conventional methods. Primarily, this article is intended to provide
an overview of the current advancements in sustainable materials, emphasizing the strengths and
potential benefits they could offer. Then, the paper investigates four scenarios as results of the
intersection between science and design, highlighting the impact on the jewelry field. Four scenarios
will analyze the materials currently employed in different fields and their possible application in
future innovative tracks: designing sensibly; reshaping waste; modeling nature; making in lab. Lastly,
this paper shows how crucial it is for designers and companies to take a proactive role and become
agents to extend access to sustainable solutions.
Keywords: sustainable materials; design; materials; recycling
1. Introduction
Historically, the need for a transition toward a more sustainable society emerged
from several environmental and social issues. In particular, the matter concerning the
environment, namely the effects of production and consumption processes on the balance
of natural habitats, began to be recognized in the latter part of the 1960s due to the rapid
expansion and spread of industrialization [1]. In the field of jewelry design, this era
also marked the beginning of a more conscious consideration of material sourcing and
production processes, laying the groundwork for today’s sustainability challenges in the
industry. In this context, the role of design as a discipline is considered, and it is gaining
more attention, especially regarding the materials used in the design and manufacturing
process. “Design is the process by which abstract ideas assume concrete form and thus
become active agents in human affairs. One of the critical parameters in any discussion of
designed artifacts is material: what something is made of and how the material employed
affects the form, function, and perception of the final design [2]”.
The jewelry industry, which has evolved since the Sixties, now faces the task of
balancing traditional craftsmanship with the urgent need for sustainable practices.
Today, design plays an essential role in providing sustainable solutions. Sustainable
solutions aim for environmental, social, and economic well-being with the perspective
of leaving future generations with a quality of life that is not inferior to the current one.
The focus of designers, companies, and researchers is to transform unsustainable systems
Sustainability 2024, 16, 1309. https://doi.org/10.3390/su16031309 https://www.mdpi.com/journal/sustainability