Applied Ocean Research 69 (2017) 76–86
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Applied Ocean Research
journal homepage: www.elsevier.com/locate/apor
Modelling of the sea surface elevation based on a data analysis in the
Greek seas
Nikos T. Martzikos
a,∗
, Takvor H. Soukissian
b
a
Laboratory of Harbour Works, School of Civil Engineering, National Technical University of Athens, 5, Heroon Polytechniou Str., 157-80, Zografos, Greece
b
Hellenic Centre for Marine Research, Institute of Oceanography, 46.7 km Athens-Sounion Ave, 19013 Anavyssos, Greece
a r t i c l e i n f o
Article history:
Received 22 May 2017
Received in revised form 22 October 2017
Accepted 23 October 2017
Keywords:
Stochastic processes
Sea surface elevation
Time series forecasting
ARMA model
Wave energy
a b s t r a c t
The theory of time series and especially of the autoregressive moving average (ARMA) models is used for
modelling the sea surface elevation. Sea surface elevation is usually recorded by wave measuring devices,
but rarely has it been analysed or analytically modelled. Except other traditional applications, forecasting
of the wave characteristics in the short-term time scale is important for the optimization of the efficiency
of the wave energy converters. The main objective of this work is, by using the Box-Jenkins methodology,
the analytical description and forecasting of the sea-surface elevation process. A sample of 50825 records
of sea surface elevation was collected by four different deep water locations at the Aegean and Ionian
seas in Greece from 2000 to 2011. Analytical ARMA(p,q) models were fitted to a variety of potential
parameter combinations, i.e. p, q = {0,1,2,3,4,5} for the examined time series in order to identify the most
suitable ARMA model for this purpose. The diagnostic and suitability check, as well as the selection of
the best model is carried out according to the Akaike and the Bayesian information criteria. The results
obtained suggest that the ARMA(2,5) model is the optimum choice for the representation of the sea
surface elevation. A further attempt has been made in order to highlight a possible relation between the
best ARMA models and various spectral characteristics such as the significant height, the spectral peak
period, the mean wave direction and the spectral bandwidth parameters of the corresponding sea-state.
Finally, based on the best-fit ARMA model, a forecast of free surface elevation is carried out, confirming
the model sufficiency by estimating the forecast errors.
© 2017 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.
1. Introduction
The assessment and modelling of prevailing wave conditions
in a sea area is of interest for ship design, harbour activities, and
operational service of platforms. Wave energy applications and the
optimal efficiency of the wave energy converters are also directly
related to the forecasting of sea surface elevation (sse). Wave cli-
mate and sea state parameters such as the significant wave height,
the spectral peak period and the mean wave direction are of great
importance in marine structural design and ocean engineering.
Therefore, several studies have analysed and modelled time series
of relevant wave parameters at different locations. The majority of
them focuses on wave spectral characteristics and in particular on
the significant wave height. However, time series of sse has rarely
been analysed.
∗
Corresponding author.
E-mail address: nmartzikos@central.ntua.gr (N.T. Martzikos).
The sea surface elevation, denoted as (t ), at a fixed position of
the free surface, is represented as a stationary, ergodic and Gaussian
stochastic process of the following form:
(t ; ˇ) =
∞
i=1
A
i
cos[2f
i
t + ϕ
i
(ˇ)], (1)
where A
i
is, at each frequency, Rayleigh distributed and denotes
the amplitude, ϕ
i
(
ˇ
)
is the phase, which is modelled as a random
variable uniformly distributed in [0, 2], f
i
is the frequency of small
amplitude components of (1), i.e. f
i
= 1/T
i
, where T
i
is wave period,
and i = 1, 2, . . .; ˇ is a choice variable. See also [1] and [2].
Each particular record (t ) of the free sse is considered as one of
the infinite possible realizations that could occur in the same place
and under the same experimental conditions. Since the stochastic
process which is represented by relation (1) is ergodic, the statis-
tical analysis of the stochastic process is practically feasible from
only one realization of it. A realization of (t ; ˇ) is a set of records
(t ) at every time instant t. In practice, this realization consists a
discrete-time time series, i.e. (t
i
) = (t
1
) , (t
2
) , . . ., (t
n
).
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.apor.2017.10.008
0141-1187/© 2017 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.