Journal of African History, 37 (1996), pp. 215-236 215
Copyright © 1996 Cambridge University Press
WHAT'S IN A DRINK? CLASS STRUGGLE, POPULAR
CULTURE AND THE POLITICS OF AKPETESHIE
(LOCAL GIN) IN GHANA, 1930-67*
BY EMMANUEL AKYEAMPONG
Harvard University
Wunni ntramma na wo se nsa nye de
When you do not have cowry shells, you say wine is not sweet
(Twi Proverb).
SOCIAL revolutions or movements of popular protest often begin innoc-
uously. They are initially preoccupied with 'bread-and-butter' politics and
with no sophisticated ideology of class-consciousness or a desire to overturn
the social order. Adherents to such movements — the weak and poor — seek to
minimize the disadvantages of the 'system' for their lives.
1
In the Gold Coast
from the 1930s, an excellent arena for popular protest centered on African
demands to distill akpeteshie (local gin). Distilled from fermented palm wine
or sugar cane juice, and requiring a simple apparatus of two tins (usually
four-gallon kerosene tins) and copper tubing,
2
akpeteshie quickly became a
lucrative industry in an era of economic depression, incorporating extensive
production and retail networks. But, far from being associated with just the
right to distill spirits, akpeteshie became embroiled in African politics under
colonial rule as world depression, World War II and the intensification of
nationalism prompted an African re-evaluation of the colonial situation.
Local distillation of akpeteshie became widespread in the Gold Coast after
1930, when temperance interests secured restrictive liquor legislation raising
the tariffs on imported liquor. As previous increases in import duties on
liquor had not adversely affected import levels and the liquor revenues so
* Research for this article was made possible by research grants from the African
Development Foundation in 1991-2 and from the William F. Milton Foundation
(Harvard University) in the summer of 1994. The paper is based on archival research
(official and missionary), contemporary Gold Coast newspapers, highlife music, comic
opera and oral interviews conducted in Ghana. An earlier version of this article was
presented at the 1994 African Studies Association Conference in Toronto. This current
version has benefited from the comments of Charles Ambler, Luise White, Leroy Vail
and the anonymous reviewers of the Journal of African History.
1
James C. Scott, Weapons of the Weak : Everyday Forms of Peasant Resistance (New
Haven, 1985), ch. 8.
2
The fermented palm wine or sugar cane juice was boiled with a coiled copper tube
running from the boiling container through a receptacle filled with cool water or a stream
and into an empty container. Steam rises from the boiling palm wine or sugar cane juice,
condenses as it passes through the cool water and drips as gin into the empty container.
The standardized alcohol strength of akpeteshie today is between 40 and 50 per cent by
volume. Palm wine contains between 3 and 5 per cent of alcohol by volume.
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