International Journal of Advanced Engineering Research
and Science (IJAERS)
Peer-Reviewed Journal
ISSN: 2349-6495(P) | 2456-1908(O)
Vol-11, Issue-9; Sep, 2024
Journal Home Page Available: https://ijaers.com/
Article DOI: https://dx.doi.org/10.22161/ijaers.119.1
www.ijaers.com Page | 7
The Relationship Between Wave Period, Deep Water
Wave and Breaking Wave Heights, Formulated Using the
Wave Amplitude Function
Syawaluddin Hutahaean
Ocean Engineering Program, Faculty of Civil and Environmental Engineering-Bandung Institute of Technology (ITB), Bandung 40132,
Indonesia
syawalf1@yahoo.co.id
Received: 30 Jul 2024,
Receive in revised form: 31 Aug 2024,
Accepted: 06 Sep 2024,
Available online: 12 Sep 2024
©2024 The Author(s). Published by AI
Publication. This is an open-access article under
the CC BY license
(https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/).
Keywords— Wave amplitude function, deep
water and breaking wave height.
Abstract— The wave amplitude function is a relational equation that
links wave amplitude with various water wave parameters, such as
wave number, wave angular frequency, and wave constant. This
function is derived by integrating the Kinematic Free Surface Boundary
Condition over time. The wave amplitude function incorporates
breaking characteristics, allowing for the extraction of breaking
parameters, including breaking wave height, breaking wave length, and
breaking water depth, as functions of the wave period. By combining
the Euler momentum conservation equation with the wave amplitude
function, a dispersion equation is obtained. This dispersion equation
elucidates the relationships between deep water wave height, deep
water wave length, and deep water depth in relation to the wave period.
The results obtained for both deep water wave height and breaking
wave height are consistent with previous research.
I. INTRODUCTION
Water waves are commonly characterized by two key
parameters: wave period and wave height. In the context of
short waves, these parameters exhibit a one-to-one
correspondence, meaning that a specific wave period is
directly associated with a corresponding wave height. This
correlation extends not only to deep water wave heights but
also to breaking wave heights.
In this research, the correlation between deep water wave
height and wave period, as well as between breaking wave
height and wave period, has been systematically analyzed.
The results are presented in the form of equations, tables,
and graphical representations.
The relationship identified between deep water wave height
and wave period aligns with the findings of Wiegel (1949,
1964), while the relationship between breaking wave height
and wave period is consistent with the research of Komar
and Gaughan (1972).
These relationships are valuable for both practical
engineering applications and research purposes. Practically,
they enable quick estimation of deep water wave height and
breaking wave height based solely on the wave period. In
the research domain, the ongoing development of water
wave transformation models, including processes like
shoaling and breaking, necessitates reliable guidelines or
estimates regarding the relationship between breaking wave
height and wave period.
II. WEIGHTED TAYLOR SERIES AND
WEIGHTING COEFFICIENT
In this article, a specialized equation and parameters are
introduced that may not be widely recognized, namely the
weighted Taylor series and the associated weighting
coefficients.