67 hps://una-editions.fr/ornaments-and-dress-accessories-as-cultural-markers ORNAMENTS AND DRESS ACCESSORIES AS CULTURAL MARKERS IN THE EARLY IRON AGE BETWEEN THE IBERIAN PENINSULA AND EUROPE Raimon Graells i Fabregat ¤ INTRODUCTION It is now widely accepted that in order to gain an understanding of repertoire and to understand how it functioned and evolved, it is not enough to study it, but that it must be compared with that of other territories; we know that the study of a category has related types with which it shares problems and solutions; and we know that the in-depth study of one cultural sphere is particularly useful for the knowledge of others. For all these reasons, the enormous repertoire of clothing ornaments of the central period of the first millennium BC serves as a privileged interlocutor for understanding the changes that took place in the costume of many of the protohistoric cultures of the peninsula. The study of material culture is experiencing a new renaissance, with several publications that have completely changed our knowledge of the different societies that occupied the Iberian Peninsula during the Iron Age 1 . Aſter formulating classifications and typologies to date and understand the peculiarities of each material culture, a process of diachronic and spatial analysis was carried out to assess the permeability, interaction, and conservatism of each series. This led to the achievement of a paradigm shiſt 2 . Today, however, the level of knowledge allows us to go one step further and evaluate new keys to interpretation, focusing on association, usability and the cultural and political messages that these objects carry. The case of clothing is particularly sensitive and allows us to identify local and foreign behaviour, which was particularly concerned with the selection and adaptation of foreign models, until the consolidation of static patterns, both for the Iberian world and for the other peninsular cultures, from the end of the 6th century BC. Ongoing research projects are taking into account the gender and age of the wearers, in addition to the technological and typological study. The sensory aspects and the perceptions provoked or experienced by both the wearer and the observer are now 1 See Graells i Fabregat et al. 2022a, as a synthesis. 2 See e.g. Graells i Fabregat 2015; Rovira Hortalà & López-Cachero 2016; Graells i Fabregat & Lorrio 2017; Gomá 2019; Royo 2021; Graells i Fabregat 2022a; Graells i Fabregat 2022b; Graells i Fabregat et al. 2022b.