International Journal of Textile Science 2025, 14(1): 5-14 DOI: 10.5923/j.textile.20251401.02 Comparative Study of Physical Properties of Cotton and Cotton-Lycra Single Jersey Knit Fabrics: Grey Stage vs. Finished Stage Abdul Baten Chowdhury 1,* , Md Rashedul Islam 2 1 Lecturer, Department of Apparel Merchandising & Management, Chattogram BGMEA University of Fashion and Technology (CBUFT), Chattogram, Bangladesh 2 Department of Civil & Environmental Engineering, Lamar University, Texas, US Abstract Single jersey (s/j) cotton knitted fabric has deformation problems and is now commonly knitted with Lycra (Spandex) yarn to improve the fabric's performance. The Lycra has a significant effect on the physical properties of the knitted fabric. This study conducts a comparative analysis of the physical properties of 100% cotton and 95% cotton- 5% Lycra blended single jersey knit fabrics in both the grey and finished stages. The primary purpose of this project work is to analyze the comparison between the physical properties of grey and finished 100% cotton and cotton with Lycra single jersey knitted fabric. The physical properties of grey and finished cotton-lycra single jersey knitted fabric such as fabric weight (Grams per square meter-GSM), bursting strength, shrinkage, pilling, and abrasion resistance were investigated, and the results were compared between the 100% cotton and cotton-lycra single jersey knitted fabric at both grey and finished fabric stage. It was found that fabric weight, bursting strength, and abrasion resistance were increased for cotton-lycra blended knitted fabric. In contrast, the shrinkage percentage decreased for grey and finished cotton-lycra fabric. Keywords Knitted fabric, Single jersey, Lycra (Spandex), Bursting strength, Shrinkage, Abrasion 1. Introduction The term that describes the technique of constructing fabrics by forming a continuous length of yarn into columns of vertically intermeshed loops is known as knitting. There are two types of knitting techniques, which are weft knitting and warp knitting [1]. In weft knitting, the loop is formed from a single yarn and runs in the crosswise direction of fabric, but in warp knitting, all the needles work together to form the loop from a full warp sheet, and the loop runs in the lengthwise direction of fabric [2]. In the 5th century, it was believed that knitting originated in the Middle East. In the early history of knitting, Egypt used cotton fibers in the knitting process. Knitting machines were used to knit hosiery for elite classes in the 16th century. By the 20th century, knitting technology became part of modern fashion as it produced a variety of outerwear such as jersey dresses, cardigans, and jumpers for men and women [3]. The fabric that is produced by following the knitting technology is called knitted fabric. Among various knitted fabrics, single jersey knitted fabric is the most common one. Single jersey * Corresponding author: baten2189@gmail.com (Abdul Baten Chowdhury) Received: Jan. 10, 2025; Accepted: Feb. 8, 2025; Published: Feb. 26, 2025 Published online at http://journal.sapub.org/textile knitted fabric is made by a single jersey circular knitting machine in which one set of needles, known as cylinder needles, is used. The main characteristic of single jersey knitted fabric is that it has an identical face and backside, which can be identified easily. Single-jersey (s/j) knitted fabric is mostly used for outer garments and undergarments such as T-shirts and Polo-shirts because it has greater comfort ability compared to woven fabric [4]. Knitted fabric relies heavily on the availability of fine, strong, uniformly spun yarn [1]. The most common yarn that is used for producing single jersey knitted fabric is cotton. Cotton fiber, which is soft and flexible, has more absorbency capability and crease tendency. There are two types of cotton yarn, such as carded yarn and combed yarn, which are widely used in knitting factories. The most popular count of cotton yarns that are available in the market is 7s, 10s, 14s, 16s, 20s, 24s, 26s, 30s, 32s, 34s, and 40s [5]. As the cotton yarn is not elastomeric, single-jersey knitted fabric easily undergoes permanent deformation. To recover this problem, nowadays a small amount of Lycra (spandex) fiber is knitted with cotton yarn. The process of knitting cotton yarn with Lycra is known as plating. There are two types of plating systems, such as full plating and half plating. When Lycra is knitted with cotton yarn in every course, it is considered as full plating. On the other hand, when Lycra is knitted with cotton yarn in alternative courses, it is known as half plating.