Int J Cosmet Sci. 2025;00:1–11. | 1 wileyonlinelibrary.com/journal/ics
Received: 21 April 2025
|
Accepted: 7 July 2025
DOI: 10.1111/ics.70012
ORIGINAL ARTICLE
Photostability and phototoxicity studies of a promising
UVA filter for sunscreens: 1-(2-hydroxyphenyl)-3-
(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3-propanedione
Yanina Susana Minaberry
1,2,3
|
Gabriel Sagrera
4
|
Mora Reneé García
2,5
|
María Laura Gutiérrez
2,5
|
Federico Eugenio Svarc
1
© 2025 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie.
1
DQIAQF, Facultad de Ciencias Exactas
y Naturales, Universidad de Buenos
Aires, Buenos Aires, Argentina
2
CONICET-Consejo Nacional de
Investigaciones Científicas y Técnicas,
Buenos Aires, Argentina
3
ITBA: Instituto Tecnológico de Buenos
Aires, Buenos Aires, Argentina
4
Departamento de Química Orgánica,
Facultad de Química, UDELAR,
Montevideo, Uruguay
5
Instituto de Farmacología, Facultad
de Medicina, Universidad de Buenos
Aires, Buenos Aires, Argentina
Correspondence
Federico Eugenio Svarc, DQIAQF,
Facultad de Ciencias Exactas y
Naturales, Universidad de Buenos
Aires, Buenos Aires, Argentina.
Email: fsvarc@qi.fcen.uba.ar
Funding information
Consejo Nacional de Investigaciones
Científicas y Técnicas, Grant/Award
Number: PIP 2021-11220200102369CO
and PIBAA No 28720210100949;
Fondo para la Investigación Científica
y Tecnológica, Grant/Award Number:
PICT 2018-3831, PICT 2020-02532 and
PICT Cat I 2021-32
Abstract
A few years ago, the 2-hydroxy-4´-methoxy dibenzoylmethane (DBM11)
molecule was synthesized and studied as a replacement for avobenzone (AVB,
butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane) because of the latter's instability under UVA
radiation. These studies, conducted in absolute ethanol with an estimated UV
irradiance of 8,56 mW/cm
2
, demonstrated almost zero decomposition of DBM11.
Thus, it is a promising candidate for use as a UVA chemical filter. However,
further studies must be conducted to verify its photostability once formulated into
an emulsion and to establish its toxicological profile. The first aim of this work
was to scale up the synthesis of DBM11 to allow its formulation into an emulsion,
which is required for the evaluation of its photostability under standardized UV
irradiation conditions (close to ISO 24443), as required for sunscreen testing
in the cosmetic industry. Additionally, in vitro phototoxicity assessments were
conducted, with slight modifications to improve reproducibility, in accordance
with OECD guidelines. These results demonstrate that DBM11 exhibits promising
photostability and a favourable toxicological profile, making it a potential
candidate for use as a UVA filter.
KEYWORDS
dibenzoyl methane derivatives, photostability, phototoxicity, safety testing, sunscreens, UVA
filters
Résumé
Il y a quelques années, la molécule de 2-hydroxy-4’-méthoxy dibenzoylméthane
(DBM11) a été synthétisée et étudiée en remplacement de l’avobenzone (AVB,
butylméthoxydibenzoylméthane), en raison de l’instabilité de ce dernier sous
rayonnement UVA. Ces études, menées dans de l’éthanol absolu avec une
irradiance UV estimée à 8,56 mW/cm
2
, ont démontré une décomposition quasi
nulle du DBM11. Il s’agit donc d’un candidat prometteur pour une utilisation en
tant que filtre chimique UVA. Cependant, d’autres études doivent être menées
pour vérifier sa photostabilité une fois formulée dans une émulsion et pour