György E. Szönyi Order and Its Subversion in Dress-Code: Crossdressing I. Social – and through it cosmic – order was for a long time represented by dress-code. Until the 20th century, when unisex dress- ing on the one hand and the by and large unproblematic acceptance of transvestism on the other have abolished rigid dress- codes, clothing was an important aspect of reflecting on the order of the world. Viola- tion of this code was understood as a seri- ous subversion of the existing order and was treated accordingly. Let me suggest here a brief and by no means complete typology of dress code in relation to universal, social, and gender or- der and its subversion up to modern times. 1. First we have to remember the strong connection between worldly power and its representation through clothing. Rulers, politicians, diplomats have always had and still have distinctive visual apparel and special requi- sites. 2. Professional dress code makes people of different social standing and engaged in different professions clearly distinguishable (think of the tunic of an archbishop, the uniform of an officer, the business suit of a broker, or the overall of a plumber). 3. Furthermore, special social or family occasions also require strictly codified dress code, from traditional ethnic clothing to bridal- wear. 4. Throughout history the gender aspect of dress code has been extremely impor- tant. Shapes and colors have always been used to identify and separate men and women. 5. The situation, however, had radically changed by the advent of the last century, when certain developments in ideology and fashion resulted in the emergence of unisex appearence. Feminist and emancipatory concerns were met by textile-technological innovations as well as a general trend to- ward less formal and less rigid clothing. Figure 1: Traditionally dressed Hungarian women in Magyar- vista (Vistea, Romania). Author's photo, 1996. Figure 2: Fashion cut-out doll. Picture from the internet. In: Anna Kérchy, György E. Szönyi, Attila Kiss ed. The Iconology of Law and Order. Szeged: JATEPress, 2012 (PEAS 21), 110-22.