Journal of the TEXTILE Associat ion 183 1. Introduction T extile softeners are used to vary the handle of fabrics (similar to filling, stiffening and weighing finishes). They should demonstrate a positive effect on the handle of treated textiles: many textil es require softer , smoother , supple handle for the best sales potential. They may also serve to improve the processability and wear characteristics of the textiles[1]. 1.1. Cationic Softeners Cationic surfactants have been defined as materials which dissolve or disperse in water , concentrate and orient at interfaces and ioni ze in such a way that the ca ti on i nc l ude s a hydr ocar bon c ha i n, wh i ch is hydrophobic and contains from 8 to 25 carbon atoms[2]. 1.2. Interesting advantages[2] Cationic compounds present some interesting advantages as textile softeners. Because of thei r substantivity to textile fibres they produce a more permanent softening effect t han eit her ani oni c or noni oni c compounds. Further, they are more effective as well, since they are effective at much lower concent ration. The al kyl chai n f ound t o be most satisfactory in softening is the saturated C 18 chain (stearyl). Since it is a saturated molecule there is minimum tendency of yellowing. The compounds containing this chain are Synthesis and Application of Cationic Softeners Huseini Shabbir Patanwala* & V . A. Dorugade Institute of Chemical Technology, Mumbai *Correspondance should be addressed to, Huseini Shabbir Pat anwala A/504, Kaif Towers, 40/44, T ank Bunder Road, Reay Road, Mazgaon, Mumbai 400010, India E-mail : huseini_87@yahoo. com Abstract Esterquats which are quaternary ammonium compounds having two long (C 16 – C 18 ) fatty acid chains with two weak ester linkages, represent a new generation of fabric softening agents, having replaced the dialkyldimethyl ammonium salts (ex. DTDMAC and DSDMAC). Incl usion of ester linkages into the aliphatic chains has significantly improved the kinetics of biodegradation of the cationi c surfactants, lowering the environmental exposure levels. This new generation of fabric softening agents combines a good environmental profile with the structural features required for an effective fabric conditioner . The basic drawback observed in cationic softeners is their yellowing property. W ork has been has done so as to reduce this yellowing property by carrying out the esterification reaction in presence of nitrogen atmosphere. Key words Cationic softeners, textile conditioners, esterquats, triethanolamine, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid. more likely to produce cloudy colloidal dispersions than compounds prepared with lauryl (C 12 ) chain or with unsaturated (oleyl) carbon chain. Dialkyl chain produces a greater total softening effect and greater efficiency per mole than the same type of compound containing only one long chain. Most of the cationic softeners show strong germicidal properties. According to bacteriologists, those cationic compounds with shorter alkyl chains or those having unsaturation are better bactericides than those which are usually preferred as textile softeners. The long, saturated alkyl groups (C 16 H 33 -, C 18 H 37 -) are preferred for softening, but they reduce water solubility. However, when the amine is quaternised, increased solubility and greater pH stability results. The anion may be chloride, acetate, bromide, methosulphate, phosphate, lactate, etc. In general, the structure and composition of the cation determines the overall effect of the molecule and the anion affects certain physical properties. 1.3. Types of Cationic Softeners[2] (a) Mono- Amines and their salts: The simpl est cationics are the primary, secondary and tertiary mono- amines and their salts, formed by neutralization of the amines usually with acetic acid. (b) Amido Amines: amido-amines are formed by the reacti on of a fatt y aci d or a gl yceri de (fat) and a substituted or unsubstituted short chain polyamine. R-COOH + H 2 N-CH 2 -CH 2 -N-(C 2 H 5 ) 2 R-CONH-CH 2 - CH 2 -N-(C 2 H 5 ) 2 + H 2 O