Anthropological Journal of European Cultures Volume 20(1), 2011: 10–28 © Berghahn Journals
doi: 10.3167/ajec.2011.200102 ISSN 1755-2923 (Print)
Parting the ‘Wine Lake’
The Revival of the Bulgarian Wine Industry
in the Age of CAP Reform
YUSON JUNG
ABSTRACT
Europe has been suffering from an overproduction of wine
and declining wine consumption, which has compelled the
EU commission to handle unsold and unconsumed wine in
Europe. This article explores the implications of the recent
wine reform (part of CAP reform) of the European Union
from the perspectives of the Bulgarian wine producers. Bul-
garia is one of the newest members of the EU and its wine
industry has traditionally been oriented towards the export
sector, making it susceptible to agricultural and trade poli-
cies in national, international and supranational levels. How
will the Bulgarian wine industry benefit from and/or suf-
fer from the agricultural policies of the EU to which it now
subjects itself as a member state? What are the limits of the
discourse of multifunctional agriculture in the EU for these
marginal wine producers? The efficacy of the CAP reform
will depend on attending to the diverse historical and po-
litical legacies of the member states without sacrificing the
more marginalised communities.
KEYWORDS
agricultural policy, Bulgaria, State and European Union,
transnational governmentality, wine reform
A Murky Tale
On a cloudy late fall morning in 2008, Yana and Kiril handed me the morn-
ing paper as soon as I got in their car to drive to the winery from the provin-
cial town of Belogradchik in northwestern Bulgaria.
1
We commuted daily to
the winery, 12 km away from the town. The newspaper contained an article
and picture about a fraud case of the EU-supported new vineyard projects
in Bulgaria.
2
The accompanying picture showed a vast piece of land planted