HPLC-DAD-MS analysis of colorant and resinous components of
lac-dye: A comparison between Kerria and Paratachardina genera
Raquel Santos
a
, Jessica Hallett
a
, M. Conceiç
~
ao Oliveira
b, *
, Micaela M. Sousa
c
,
Jorge Sarraguça
d
, M.S.J. Simmonds
e
, M. Nesbitt
e
a
CHAM (Centre for Overseas History), Faculdade de Ci^ encias Sociais e Humanas, Universidade Nova de Lisboa and Universidade dos Açores,
1069-061 Lisboa, Portugal
b
Centro de Química Estrutural, Instituto Superior T ecnico, Universidade de Lisboa, 1049-001 Lisboa, Portugal
c
REQUIMTE, Departamento de Química, Faculdade de Ci^ encias e Tecnologia, Universidade Nova de Lisboa, 2829-516 Monte da Caparica, Portugal
d
REQUIMTE, Laborat orio de Química Aplicada, Departamento de Ci^ encias Químicas, Faculdade de Farm acia, Universidade do Porto, 4050-313 Porto,
Portugal
e
Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, Richmond, Surrey TW9 3AB, UK
article info
Article history:
Received 22 June 2014
Received in revised form
27 November 2014
Accepted 25 February 2015
Available online 12 March 2015
Keywords:
Dyes/pigments
Liquid chromatography
Mass spectrometry
Lac-dye
Paratachardina spp.
Kerria spp.
abstract
A database using high performance liquid chromatography with diode array detection was created for
lac-dye insects (Kerria and Paratachardina genera) in order to identify the red dye used in historical
textiles. Lac from Kerria and Paratachardina species was easily distinguished by liquid chromatography
coupled to negative electrospray ionization tandem mass spectrometry. Seventy-six historical lac-dye
specimens and seven reference insect specimens were analyzed and compared with 41 historical car-
pet samples. Using this approach, the presence of Kerria spp. was identified in three carpets, pointing to
an Iranian provenance and corroborating a 16th/17th-century date for them, obtained previously with
C14 analysis.
Multivariate data analysis was applied to differentiate sources of Kerria and improve the lac-dye
database. PCA indicates that discrimination can be obtained according to composition. Information
regarding pigment and resin concentrations is recovered separately in first and second principal com-
ponents, respectively, which offers a basis of separation for this type of data.
The development of this lac-dye database is an important step towards improving research on lac-dye
species, which can contribute to more accurate identification of the provenance of historical textiles. This
work reinforces the importance of using taxonomically-verified specimens of Kerria, previously sub-
mitted to molecular taxonomic studies, to construct a more reliable lac-dye database capable of iden-
tifying the lac species present in historical textiles, as well as the provenance of the insect used.
© 2015 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.
1. Introduction
High performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) combined
with sensitive and selective detection techniques such as diode
array detector (DAD) and more recently mass spectrometry (MS)
are widely applied to identify the colorants used in works of art
[1,2]. The identification of natural dyes in historical textiles is a
challenging task owing to factors such as small sample size as well
as the complexity of dye degradation processes [3e5].
Extraction procedures have a direct impact on the results
obtained by HPLC-DAD-MS
n
and other related analytical tech-
niques [6,7]. Extraction of dyes from a textile fiber was usually
carried out with 3 M hydrochloric acid-methanol (1:1, v/v) at
boiling point. In the past few years, this traditional aggressive
acidic extraction method [8,9] has been replaced by new soft
extraction methods that enable the sugar derivatives of the col-
orants to be extracted intact [6,7,10,11]. These extracts contain a
greater diversity of compounds and therefore more complete
information for differentiating samples and identifying dye
sources. Indeed, sample preparation has proven to affect both the
quality and quantity of the isolated colorants [7], something
which is of fundamental importance for studying precious his-
torical textiles.
* Corresponding author.
E-mail addresses: conceicao.oliveira@tecnico.ulisboa.pt, ana.rsantos@fcsh.unl.pt
(M.C. Oliveira).
Contents lists available at ScienceDirect
Dyes and Pigments
journal homepage: www.elsevier.com/locate/dyepig
http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.dyepig.2015.02.024
0143-7208/© 2015 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.
Dyes and Pigments 118 (2015) 129e136