© Costume Society of America 2013 DOI 10.1179/0361211213Z.00000000016
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Stella Blum
Grant Report
Nuu-chah-nulth First Nations’
Huulthin (Shawls):
Historical and Contemporary
Practices
Denise Nicole Green
Denise Nicole Green is a Vanier Scholar and Ph.D. candidate in Anthropology at the University of British
Columbia. Her dissertation examines Nuu-chah-nulth textiles, clothing, and regalia as animate
materials that shape cultural knowledge on the West Coast of Vancouver Island.
Huulthin (shawls) play an important role in Nuu-chah-nulth First Nations’ oral histories, social organiza-
tion, and ceremonial life. Drawing upon archival, material, museum, and ethnographic data, this
research explores changes in huulthin as emblematic of broader social, economic, and spiritual transfor-
mations. Nuu-chah-nulth First Nations’ huulthin do not exist in a vacuum—they are intimate posses-
sions, collectively produced and displayed. Huulthin are a material iteration of deep histories, spiritual
beliefs, social relationships, and trade networks. In the last 240 years, colonial encounters, capitalist
economies (fueling rampant resource extraction and industrialization), settlement, and Canada’s
aggressive assimilationist agenda have brought dramatic change to the West Coast of Vancouver Island.
Huulthin are a material, symbolic, spiritual, and embodied interface: between individuals and tribal
communities, physical and spiritual worlds, knowledge and display, and perhaps most importantly,
between history and a rapidly changing world.
Keywords ceremonial regalia, Nuu-chah-nulth, colonialism, fashion, Northwest Coast Native
Americans