Comparison and evaluation of volatile oils from three different extraction methods for some Thai fragrant flowers W. Paibon*, C.-A.Yimnoi*, N. Tembab*, W. Boonlue*, K. Jampachaisrià, N. Nuengchamnong§, N. Waranuchand K. Ingkaninan*,*Bioscreening Unit, Department of Pharmaceutical Chemistry and Pharmacognosy, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Naresuan University, Cosmetic and Natural Product Research Unit, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Naresuan University, àKatechan Jampachaisri, Department of Mathematics, Faculty of Science, Naresuan University and §Regional Medical Sciences Center Phitsanulok, Department of Medical Sciences, Ministry of Public Health, Phitsanulok 65000, Thailand Received 4 April 2010, Accepted 12 April 2010 Keywords: extraction methods, Jasminum sambac, sensory test, Thai flowers, volatile oils Synopsis Several tropical flowers have distinctive fragrances which are very appealing to use in perfumery, cosmetics and spa. However, to obtain a ‘natural fragrance’ from the flower is a challenge as the scent could change during the extraction process. The aim of the study is to find the suitable procedure for extraction of volatile oils from some Thai fragrant flowers. Three different methods: hydrodi- stillation, solvent extraction and enfleurage methods have been applied for the extraction of volatile oil from Jasminum sambac L. Aiton; Oleaceae (jasmine). The quantities and quality of jasmine volatile oils obtained from the different tested methods were com- pared. The solvent extraction method using 95% ethanol provided the greatest level of oil yield. However, sensory evaluation using preference test showed that the scents of the volatile oils from sol- vent extraction using diethyl ether and from enfleurage method were the closest to the fresh flowers compared with the volatile oils obtained from other methods. Their chemical constituents were analysed using gas chromatography coupled with mass spectrome- ter. Both volatile oils were then evaluated using a triangle discrimi- nation test. From the triangle test, we found that 14 panellists from the total of 36 could not distinguish between the scents of jas- mine oil from enfleurage and fresh jasmine flowers whereas only one panellist could not distinguish between the scent of jasmine oil from the solvent extraction and fresh jasmine flowers. These results suggest that the scent of the volatile oil obtained from the enfleu- rage method was the closest to fresh flowers compared with that obtained from other methods. This method was then successfully applied for extraction of volatile oils from three other Thai fragrant flowers, Michelia alba DC.; Magnoliaceae, Millingtonia hortensis L.; Bignoniaceae and Hedychium coronarium J. Konig; Zingiberaceae. Re ´ sume ´ Plusieurs fleurs tropicales ont des parfums distincts tre `s attrayants pour une utilisation en parfumerie, en cosme ´tique et dans les spas. Cependant, obtenir ‘‘un parfum naturel’’ issu de la fleur est un de ´fi car la senteur pourrait changer pendant le processus d’extraction. Le but de ce travail est de trouver la proce ´dure approprie ´e pour l’extrac- tion d’huiles volatiles de certaines fleurs parfume ´es thaı ¨s. Trois me ´th- odes diffe ´rentes :l’hydro distillation, l’extraction par solvant et des me ´thodes d’enfleurage ont e ´te ´ mises en œuvre pour l’extraction d’huile volatile de Jasminum Sambac L. Aiton; Oleaceae (jasmin). Les quantite ´s et la qualite ´ des huiles volatiles de jasmin obtenues par ces diffe ´rentes me ´thodes e ´value ´es ont e ´te ´ compare ´es. L’extraction par solvant, me ´thode utilisant l’e ´thanol 95% a fourni le meilleur rende- ment en huile. Cependant, l’e ´valuation sensorielle utilisant le test approprie ´ a montre ´ que les parfums des huiles obtenues par extrac- tion au di e ´thyle e ´ther et par la me ´thode d’enfleurage e ´taient les plus proches de ceux des fleurs fraiches que ceux obtenus par les autres me ´thodes. Leurs constituants chimiques ont e ´te ´ analyse ´s en utilisant la chromatographie phase gazeuse couple ´e a ` la spectroscopie de masse (GC-MS). Les deux huiles volatiles ont e ´te ´ alors e ´value ´es en utilisant un test de discrimination en triangle. Par ce test, nous avons trouve ´ que quatorze des trente-six panelistes ne pouvaient pas distin- guer entre les parfums d’huile de jasmin issue de l’enfleurage et celui des fleurs de jasmin fraı ˆches tandis que seul un pane ´liste pouvait distinguer le parfum de l’huile de jasmin obtenue par l’extraction au solvant de celui des fleurs fraı ˆches. Ces re ´sultats sugge `rent que le parfum de l’huile volatile obtenue par enfleurage e ´tait le plus proche de celui des fleurs fraı ˆches comparativement aux autres me ´thodes. Cette me ´thode a e ´te ´ utilise ´e avec succe `s pour l’extraction d’huiles volatiles de trois autres fleurs parfume ´es thaı ¨es, Michelia Alba DC.; Magnoliaceae, Millingtonia hortensis L.; Bignoniaceae et Hedychium coronarium J. Konig; Zingiberaceae. Introduction Volatile oils, also known as essential oils, can be secreted from oil cells, secretion ducts or glandular hairs of plants, all of which give a characteristic scent. Such oils are widely used in perfumes, cos- metics and food. They also have various pharmacological effects such as carminative, antiseptic, antispasmodic, inhalant and anal- gesic effects [1–3]. Oriental flowers are known for their unique fragrances. Their volatile oils are very attractive for use in perfume, cosmetics or spa business. However, it is not easy to preserve their delicate smell throughout sample preparation and extraction process [4], as many factors can affect the quality of the volatile oils [5–7]. To find the Correspondence: Kornkanok Ingkaninan, Cosmetic and Natural Product Research Unit, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Naresuan University, Phitsanulok 65000, Thailand. Tel.: +66 84817350; e-mail: k_ingkaninan@yahoo.com International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2011, 33, 150–156 doi: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00603.x ª 2010 The Authors. Journal compilation ª 2010 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Socie ´te ´ Franc ¸aise de Cosme ´tologie 150