Wavelet-based vortical structure detection and length scale estimate for laboratory
spilling waves
Zhi-Cheng Huang
a
, Hwung-Hweng Hwung
b,
⁎, Kuang-An Chang
c
a
Department of Hydraulic and Ocean Engineering, National Cheng Kung University, Tainan, Taiwan, ROC
b
Department of Hydraulic and Ocean Engineering, Tainan Hydraulics Laboratory, National Cheng Kung University, Tainan, Taiwan, ROC
c
Zachry Department of Civil Engineering, Texas A&M University, College Station, Texas 77843, United States
abstract article info
Article history:
Received 15 September 2009
Received in revised form 2 April 2010
Accepted 13 April 2010
Available online 23 May 2010
Keyword:
Vortical structure
Length scale
Turbulence
Wave breaking
Surf zone
Turbulent flow fields under spilling breaking waves are measured by particle image velocimetry and
analyzed using the wavelet techniques in a laboratory surf zone. The turbulent vortical structures and
corresponding length scales in the flow are detected through the eduction of the most excited mode with
local intermittency measure that is found to correlate with the passage of the structure. Distributions and
evolution of the educed vortical structures are presented and discussed. Packets of vortical structures with
high intermittency is observed to stretch downward below the initially low-intermittency trough level,
indicating these structures play a crucial role in turbulent mixing below the trough level. It is found that the
probability density functions of the intermittent energy of the educed structures, vorticity and swirl strength
display an exponential decay. Ensemble-averaged length scales of the educed vortical structures are found to
be about 0.1 to 0.2 times the local water depth, close to the turbulent mixing length reported in the surf zone.
The Kolmogorov microscale is evaluated and the turbulent mixing length is estimated using the k -ε relation
and mixing length hypothesis. The k -ε relation may overestimate the mixing length scale for energetic
descending eddies.
© 2010 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.
1. Introduction
Wave breaking plays an important role in transferring wave
energy, momentum, heat, and mass at the air–sea interface. In the
process, wave motion is converted from an irrotational flow into a
rotational turbulent shear flow, and wave energy is dissipated.
Turbulence generated by wave breaking also brings sediment into
suspension from the bed and transported by the wave-induced
current. Accordingly, turbulence under breaking waves has been an
important issue for many researchers such as geophysical scientists,
environmental and coastal engineers.
Recent advances in wave breaking study have led to better
understanding of its mechanism. Descriptive representations of surf
zone wave breaking, such as the crest rolling, water splashing and
vortex generation, were carried out using flow visualization techni-
ques (e.g., Nadaoka et al., 1989; Lin and Hwung, 1992). More
advanced quantitative insights for surf zone dynamics were achieved
using point measuring techniques such as laser Doppler velocimetry
(LDV) (e.g., Stive, 1980; Nadaoka et al., 1989; Ting and Kirby, 1996;
Cox and Kobayashi, 2000; Stansby and Feng, 2005; Longo, 2009).
However, instantaneous spatial distribution and derivation of certain
physical quantities cannot be obtained with LDV, and spatial
derivatives were estimated through the Taylor hypothesis (i.e., ∂/
∂t =-C(∂/∂x) with C being the wave phase speed). This assumption
may be questionable in the analysis of turbulence transport in surf
zone because turbulent fluctuations are not small if compared to the
mean flow (Ting and Kirby, 1995; Kimmoun and Branger, 2007).
Recently, more and more flow field and turbulence measurements in
surf zones were performed using particle image velocimetry (PIV) due
to its full-field advantage of obtaining the entire velocity map
(Govender et al., 2002; Kimmoun and Branger, 2007; Ting, 2008;
Huang et al., 2009a,b).
For flows inside a surf zone, it is known that turbulence is primarily
generated in the crest region through the rolling and water splashing
process (Peregrine, 1983; Christensen et al., 2002; Watanabe et al.,
2005; Kimmoun and Branger, 2007; Huang et al., 2009a). Turbulence
in that region is observed to stretch into the interior water column
below the trough level by convection and turbulent diffusion after the
passing of the developed turbulent bore (Kimmoun and Branger,
2007; Huang et al., 2009a). The downward stretching of turbulence is
found to associate with a large-scale eddy motion — the so-called
obliquely descending eddy denominated by Nadaoka et al. (1989).
The eddy is responsible for excessive mass flux, and it enhances
momentum transport in breaking waves. However, such a large
turbulent motion occurs intermittently and its instantaneous burst of
turbulent kinetic energy and Reynolds stress could not be explained
Coastal Engineering 57 (2010) 795–811
⁎ Corresponding author. Tel.: + 886 6 2757575x50023; fax: + 886 6 2366265.
E-mail address: hhhwung@mail.ncku.edu.tw (H.-H. Hwung).
0378-3839/$ – see front matter © 2010 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.
doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2010.04.006
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