REVIEW ARTICLE
BJD
British Journal of Dermatology
Chemical peeling in ethnic skin: an update
A. Salam,
1
O.E. Dadzie
2
and H. Galadari
3
1
Charing Cross Hospital, Imperial College Healthcare NHS Trust, London, U.K.
2
Department of Dermatology and Histopathology, The North West London Hospitals NHS Trust, Northwick Park Hospital, Watford Road, Harrow, HA1 3UJ,
UK.
3
College of Medicine and Health Sciences, United Arab Emirates University, Al Ain, United Arab Emirates
Correspondence
Hassan Galadari.
E-mail: hgaladari@uaeu.ac.ae
Accepted for publication
21 April 2013
Funding sources
This supplement was kindly sponsored by L’Or eal
Research & Innovation and Beiersdorf.
Conflicts of interest
None declared.
DOI 10.1111/bjd.12535
Summary
With the growth of cosmetic dermatology worldwide, treatments that are effec-
tive against skin diseases and augment beauty without prolonged recovery peri-
ods, or exposing patients to the risks of surgery, are increasing in popularity.
Chemical peels are a commonly used, fast, safe and effective clinic room treat-
ment that may be used for cosmetic purposes, such as for fine lines and photo-
ageing, but also as primary or adjunct therapies for acne, pigmentary disorders
and scarring. Clinicians are faced with specific challenges when using peels on
ethnic skin (skin of colour). The higher risk of postinflammatory dyschromias
and abnormal scarring makes peels potentially disfiguring. Clinicians should
therefore have a sound knowledge of the various peels available and their safety
in ethnic skin. This article aims to review the background, classification, various
preparations, indications, patient assessment and complications of using chemical
peels in ethnic skin.
What’s already known about this topic?
•
Chemical peels are efficacious therapeutic interventions for many skin disorders.
•
Many peels exist; however, not all are safe for use in ethnic skin.
•
Darker skin types have an increased risk of adverse events from chemical peeling
such as pigmentary disorders.
What does this study add?
•
This is an up-to-date review of the various peeling agents and their indications for
use in ethnic skin.
•
It provides a summary of newer peeling agents.
•
It gives practical tips on performing chemical peeling safely and effectively in eth-
nic skin.
•
Prevention and management of complications of chemical peeling in this cohort
are discussed.
The ethnic makeup of the world is rapidly changing. Of the
1Á5 billion people the world is predicted to have gained by
2020, the majority will be from Asia (56%) and Africa
(16%).
1
The U.S.A. is predicted to have close to 50% of its
population comprising people with skin of colour by 2050
(U.S. 2000 census),
2
and the U.K. has seen the proportion of
Black Africans double between 2001 and 2011.
3
Despite turbulent economic climates, cosmetic procedures
are at an all-time high with over 13 million procedures per-
formed in the U.S.A. in 2011 (5% increase from 2010). Mini-
mally invasive procedures, such as chemical peels, have
increased by 123% since 2000, in comparison to surgical pro-
cedures, which have increased by only 17%.
4
Given the simultaneous growth of people with skin of col-
our and the demand for cosmetic procedures, dermatologists
must appreciate the challenges of cosmetic procedures in those
with darker skin types. On top of this, dermatologists must
also appreciate the facial anatomy, ageing patterns and cultural
© 2013 The Authors
BJD © 2013 British Association of Dermatologists
82 British Journal of Dermatology (2013) 169 (Suppl. 3), pp82–90