Javellana / Global Exchange: Glimpses of an 18
th
Century Colonial Kitchen in Manila 35
Kritika Kultura 24 (2015): –088 © Ateneo de Manila University
<http://kritikakultura.ateneo.net>
Abstract
It seems self-evident that Spanish cuisine inluenced Philippine cuisine. he similarity in
nomenclature, some with toponyms, suggests such connection. To imagine that Spanish-
inluenced dishes that Filipinos consume in today were exactly the same in the 18
th
century is
to be oblivious of the complex evolution of Hispanic dishes, the result of colonial exchange
and negotiation.
he 1768 inventory of the Colegio de San José’s kitchen, an otherwise laconic list, is
interpreted and brought to life with help of other studies, like that on food migrants by
scholars, the late Doreen G. Fernandez, Dr. Isagani Medina and Corazon Alvina, which
shed light on the ingredients available in colonial Philippines. he 18
th
century recipe book
from Mexico by the Franciscan Gerónimo de San Pelayo, Libro de Cocina del hermano
fray Gerónimo de San Pelayo gives us a glimpse of a kitchen in Mexico and suggests that
the dishes in Fray Gerónimo’s recipe book could easily be replicated in the Philippines as
almost all the ingredients were readily available in Manila. If not some subsitute could be
found.
Essential in cooking with some complexity and sophistication is the ability to control heat.
he versatile carahay, or wok, a common implement in the San José kitchen, was ideal for
that. It was used not just for stir-frying, but for dry roasting, steaming and boiling.
Keywords
Colegio de San José, friars and religious, Hispanic cuisine, Jesuit suppression
papers,18
th
century foods and dishes
About the Author
Rene Javellana is currently on the Research and Creative Work track of the Ateneo de
Manila University (2013-2015). He teaches the history of art at the Fine Arts Program of the
GLOBAL EXCHANGE: GLIMPSES OF AN 18
TH
CENTURY COLONIAL KITCHEN IN MANILA
Rene B. Javellana, SJ
Fine Arts Program
Ateneo de Manila University
rjavellana@ateneo.edu