International Journal of Engineering & Technology IJET-IJENS Vol: 11 No: 06 70 111906-8585 IJET-IJENS @ December 2011 IJENS I J E N S Selection of appropriate ring traveller number for different count of cotton hosiery yarn 1 Jamal Hossen, 2 Subrata Kumar Saha Department of Textile Engineering Ahsanullah University of Science and Technology 141-142, Love Road, Tejgaon I/A, Dhaka-1208, Bangladesh Abstract: Traveller has a great impact on yarn quality parameters specially hairiness. Yarn quality varies due to different traveller number. The traveller imparts twist to the yarn and enables winding of the yarn on the cop. However, cooperating assembly, the spindle is required for the winding operation. High contact pressure (up to 35 N/mm 2 ) is generated between the ring and traveller during winding, mainly due to centrifugal force. This research was established according to yarn parameter of hairiness, U%, IPI, i.e. imperfection index and end breakage rate per 1000 spindle-hr. It is very important for the technologist to understand this and act on them to optimize the yarn production. Specific number of traveller should be used for a particular count of yarn. Keywords: Traveller number, carded yarn, combed yarn, Uster Tester, hosiery yarn. I. INTRODUCTION The ring and traveller combination is effectively a twisting and winding mechanism [3]. Although it is very minute in appearance, it plays an important role in spinning operation [2]. Several investigations have been carried out on the influence of the ring traveller [4]. For a given yarn count, the longer the fibers, the fewer the number per unit length of a given yarn count, and this is reflected in the yarn hairiness. Consequently, there moving of short fibers by combing results in combed yarns being much less hairy than carded yarns of equivalent count [3]. In most cases, the limit to productivity of the ring spinning machine is defined by the traveller in interdependence with the ring, and yarn. The following shapes are in use in the short-staple spinning mills: (i) C-traveller (ii) Flat or oval traveller (iii) Elliptical traveller (iv) N-traveller (v) SU- traveller [1]. Usually, C-traveller is used in short-staple spinning mills. C-traveller and Kanai brand were used in this work. II. MATERIALS AND METHOD Formerly in the United Kingdom, the term hosiery was used in the generic sense of all types of knitted fabrics and goods made up there from. Combed, super carded and carded yarns are all used extensively for knitting [6]. In this study 26/1 Ne and 30/1 Ne carded hosiery and 24/1 Ne and 34/1 Ne combed hosiery yarn were made from roving of hank 0.75. For both carded and combed yarns, twist multiplier were 3.6 and 3.5 respectively. Specific ring frame was selected and then any specific 10 spindles of that frame were selected. Ten yarn cops were collected by using five different traveller number of same manufacturing company (Kanai). Due to unavailability of the traveller of brand name like Bracker, Carter, Reiners and Furst, only the Kanai brand was used. Unevenness percentage(U%), CVm%, hairiness (H), thin (-50%)/km, thick (+50%)/km, neps (+200%)/km were tested by Uster Tester-5. Imperfection index (IPI) was calculated and end breakage rate (EBR) per 1000 spindle-hr also studied in each cases. Due to both lighter and heavier traveller end breakage rate vary and quality of yarn decrease by increasing the EBR. Then test results were analyzed for identifying suitable traveller number for above mentioned counts.