Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 12, 144--148
Brazilian keratin hair treatment: a review
Courtney Weathersby, MS,
1
& Amy McMichael, MD
2
1
University of Virginia School of Medicine, Charlottesville, Virginia, USA
2
Wake Forest University School of Medicine, Winston-Salem, North Carolina, USA
Summary Brazilian keratin treatments are widely available products that are used by women
all over the world to straighten hair. Marketers of these products claim that the
keratin treatments render naturally curly hair more manageable and frizz-free while
enhancing color and shine, giving the hair a healthier appearance. Although widely
used, there have been virtually no reports of adverse side effects. Unfortunately,
many of the products that are applied by salon professionals contain formaldehyde or
its derivatives and are being marketed as safe.
Keywords: African hair, Afro-ethnic hair, straightening
Introduction
For most women, hair is an important feature that
contributes to one’s individual identity and can be used
as a vehicle to express beauty, attractiveness, and indi-
viduality.
1,2
Having more manageable hair that defies
humidity has been a long-time desire among women
from various ethnic groups. This is evident in the mul-
titude of straightening and smoothening techniques
that are used across the globe. Historically, flattening
irons and pressing combs that add heat to modify the
hydrogen bonds of the hair, as well as chemical
straighteners, which restructure the disulfide bonds of
hair, have been used to cause straightening of the hair.
Unfortunately, these mechanisms can weaken the hair
shaft causing increased hair fragility, damage, and
breakage.
3
Early studies that have looked at hair fragil-
ity in Black or African hair in comparison with Cauca-
sian and Asian hair have concluded that the
biochemical components of the hair among these
groups are identical and that hair fragility seen in Afri-
can hair was due to structural shaft damage.
4
More
recent studies have shown that the outer root sheath
and the connective tissue sheath are not symmetrical
along the follicle and are thicker on concave side.
5
These studies also showed that the proliferative matrix
is different in curly hair. This suggests that heat and
chemical straightening methods may work differently
depending on hair type.
With the advancement of hair care chemistry and
tools, hair straightening techniques are becoming more
sophisticated, allowing for easier and more durable
straightening of the hair. The Brazilian keratin hair
treatments are a newer hair straightening method that
has recently gained popularity due to its ability to
straightening the hair with additional claims of
decreasing frizz and increasing shine for up to
5 months. The aim of this article is to review the cur-
rent data on keratin-smoothening treatments, the sci-
ence behind the treatment, and the issues surrounding
the treatment.
Brazilian hair straightening: what is it?
Brazilian keratin hair straightening, also known as ker-
atin smoothening or keratin straightening, has grown
in popularity as the treatment of choice for those who
wish to maintain straight or relaxed hair for long peri-
ods of time. Brazilian hair straightening originated in
Correspondence: A McMichael, Department of Dermatology, Wake Forest
University School of Medicine, Medical Center Boulevard, Winston-Salem,
NC 27157-1071, USA. E-mail: amcmicha@wfubmc.edu
Accepted for publication December 22, 2012
144 © 2013 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.
Review Article