Innovative Directions in Philosophy
of/through Food
Appetites for Thought: Philosophers and Food
Michel Onfray
London: Reaktion Books, 2015
136 pp. $24.95 (paper)
Philosophers at Table: On Food and Being Human
Raymond D. Boisvert and Lisa Heldke
London: Reaktion Books, 2016
197 pp. $22.50 (paper)
Appetites for Thought and Philosophers at Table are welcome
additions to the steadily growing philosophical literature on
food. While the philosophy of food corpus has focused largely
on applied issues within food ethics (e.g., debates on GM
food, functional food, and related issues in animal and
environmental ethics), Michel Onfray, Raymond D. Boisvert,
and Lisa Heldke have done excellent work expanding the field
in new directions, ultimately inviting the reorientation of
philosophy itself through the contemplation of food.
Originally published in French in 1989, Appetites for
Thought is one of just a few books from the prolific philosopher
Michel Onfray that has made its way into English. Onfray takes
a historical approach in supporting his thesis that “There is
no innocent dietetics, ” navigating chronologically through
entertaining discussions of the lives and works of seven key
thinkers (which comprise the book’ s seven chapters) in order
to illustrate fascinating correlations between their diets and
philosophies (p.14). The narrative begins in the fourth century
BC with Diogenes. The Greek Cynic actively eschewed even
the most fundamental trappings of society (e.g., the use of fire),
and the alimentary manifestations of his approach included
uncooked, bloody flesh, as well as being open to cannibalism
(though Onfray remarks that scholars are uncertain whether he
actually experimented with anthropophagy). Acknowledging his
own role as food for others, Diogenes requested that, upon his
death, his body be thrown outdoors for wild animals to consume
him, and some scholars allege that he died from eating raw
octopus.
Onfray frames eighteenth-century political philosopher Jean-
Jacques Rousseau as an intellectual descendant of Diogenes
in his embrace of rustic simplicity, pining for a return to the
freedom that humanity enjoyed in its origins before evolving
toward the shackles of civilization. Rousseau’ s philosophy of
food is a deliberate resistance to elaborate gastronomic theory,
upholding milk as the most pure and least corrupt of foods, and
extolling the many virtues of vegetarianism, which he linked
conceptually with pacifism and the state of nature.
Known for his ethical theory’ s emphasis on acting from duty
and respecting human autonomy and rationality, German
Enlightenment philosopher Immanuel Kant regarded both
gluttony and drunkenness as vices due to their violation of a
person’ s own duty to oneself and to society, resulting in an inabil-
ity to exercise rationality and self-control. At the same time, Kant
was known for his overconsumption of alcohol in his earlier
years, and remarked positively on its tendency to encourage
frankness and social harmony. Ultimately, Kant appears to
endorse an ethics of moderation regarding the consumption of
food and beverage, “permitting a use that is not a misuse” (p.43).
Socialist utopian theorist Charles Fourier envisioned society’ s
move from civilization to a new order that he called Harmony,
entailing the reorganization of many human relations, as well
as the geography of the world itself. Promoting the liberation
of desire and the breaking of societal prohibitions in general,
regarding dietary regime Fourier argued for the importance of
recognizing and paying homage to the passion of gluttony by
making it “the axis around which the social world will turn”
(p.53). One avenue for actualizing this is the encouragement
and democratization of cooking, as well as the key role of
“gastrosophers” (gastronomic philosophers) in crafting dishes
that cater to the myriad temperaments of different individuals.
Onfray’ s narrative progresses to the late nineteenth-century
philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche. Nietzsche recognized the
REVIEW ESSAY | Joey Tuminello
GASTRONOMICA: THE JOURNAL OF CRITICAL FOOD STUDIES, VOL. 17, NUMBER 2, PP. 72–75, ISSN 1529-3262, ELECTRONIC ISSN 1533-8622. © 2017 BY THE REGENTS OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PLEASE DIRECT ALL REQUESTS FOR
PERMISSION TO PHOTOCOPY OR REPRODUCE ARTICLE CONTENT THROUGH THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA PRESS’S REPRINTS AND PERMISSIONS WEB PAGE, HTTP://WWW.UCPRESS.EDU/JOURNALS.PHP?P=REPRINTS. DOI: HTTPS://DOI.ORG/10.1525/GFC.2017.17.2.72.
GASTRONOMICA
72
SUMMER 2017