Adhatoda vasica in Conjunction with Binary Combinations of Metal Salts and Biomordants as an Effective Textile Dye to Produce novel Shades on Wool Luqman Jameel Rather a , Shahid-ul-Islam a , Mohd Shabbir a , Mohd Nadeem Bukhari a , Faqeer Mohammad a , and Mohd Ali Khan b a Department of Chemistry, Jamia Millia Islamia, New Delhi, India; b Department of Post Harvest Engineering and Technology, Faculty of Agricultural Sciences, A.M.U, Aligarh, U.P., India ABSTRACT This study was undertaken to propose an alternative use of Adhatoda vasica leaves extract as a potential source of natural dye for the coloration of woolen yarn/fibers. Premordanting technique was adopted with double metal salt combinations of ferrous sulfate, stannous chloride, and potassium aluminum sulfate and double biomordant combinations of gallnut, pome- granate, and babool, to achieve dyed textile materials of acceptable colori- metric and fastness properties. Sixty-three sober and elegant shades were developed on wool by varying the nature and the concentration of mor- dants involved in the combinations. The hue of color developed was found to be in yellow-red coordinate of color space diagram. All the dyed samples presented excellent color strength (K/S) values and highest values were found in case of gallnut + pomegranate peel extract (PPE) combination. Biomordants produced altogether different behavior in comparison to metal mordants in the development of ecofriendly shades of different hue and tune. Majority of the dyed samples showed excellent fastness proper- ties with respect to light, washing, and rubbing which confirmed the possibility of using A. vasica leaves extract as an effective yellow natural dye. 摘要 本研究的目的是提出一种用adhatodavasica叶提取物对羊毛纱/纤维着色的 一个潜在的天然染料的来源。premordanting技术采用硫酸亚铁、氯化锡 双金属盐的组合，和钾的硫酸铝和五倍子、石榴、双biomordant组合和 阿拉伯树胶，实现染色的纺织材料和可接受的色牢度性能。六十三的清 醒和优雅的色调上开发羊毛通过不同的性质和参与组合的媒染剂浓度。 颜色的色调被发现在颜色空间图的黄红色坐标中。所有的染色样品具有 良好的颜色强度（K／S）值和最高值分别为五倍子+个人防护设备组合情 况下发现。biomordants产生完全不同的行为在不同的色调和环保色调的 曲调发展金属媒染剂的比较。大多数的染色样品表现出优良的牢度性能 与光、洗、擦，确认使用A.vasica可能性叶提取物作为一种有效的黄色的 天然染料。 KEYWORDS Biomordant; color strength; fastness properties; metal mordant; natural dye; shades 关键词 色强度; 色强度; 金属媒染 剂天然染料; 颜色 Introduction The art of using natural dyes for coloration of textile materials is one of the oldest techniques ever known to man and dates back to the dawn of the civilizations. India has a rich wealth of CONTACT Faqeer Mohammad faqeermohammad@rediffmail.com Department of Chemistry, Jamia Millia Islamia, 110025 New Delhi, India. Color versions of one or more of the figures in the article can be found online at www.tandfonline.com/WJNF. © 2018 Taylor & Francis JOURNAL OF NATURAL FIBERS 2018, VOL. 15, NO. 4, 611–623 https://doi.org/10.1080/15440478.2017.1349712