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Chapter 10
Producing Distinction: Aristocratic
and Imperial Representation in the
Constantinian Age
Mariana Bodnaruk
In the Historia Augusta, a series of imperial biographies written in the 380s,
Emperor Gallienus is said to have been the frst to wear in public a radiate crown
(corona radiata) and a purple cloak (chlamys purpurea) with jewelled and golden
clasps.
1
He also donned a tunic with sleeves of purple and gold (tunica purpurea
aurataque) and a jewelled military sword belt (balteus), and fastened jewels down
to the laces of his boots (campagi).
2
Nostalgia for a good emperor and desire for a
ruler respecting the senatorial order, conservative by nature, prompted the author
of the Historia Augusta to criticise Gallienus’ breach of the traditional vestimentary
code and to note previous emperors as always wearing the toga (semper togati).
3
By divesting themselves of the toga, late-third-century Roman emperors are shown
to have renounced the very notion of the civilian ideology of the early empire.
Although, despite his exclusion of senators from military service, Gallienus was
not solely responsible for the abrupt break with the tradition increasingly cut off
from offce since the Severan period,
4
the fourth-century pro-senatorial source
An earlier version of this chapter was delivered at the University of Ottawa. I should like
to thank our generous host Geoffrey Greatrex as well as Hugh Elton and the anonymous
reviewers for Shifting Frontiers X for their corrections and comments. I should also like
to thank Alan Cameron and Bryan Ward-Perkins as readers of my doctoral prospectus
with earlier versions of this piece; I am much indebted to their encouragement and helpful
suggestions. I am most grateful to Volker Menze, Michele Salzman, John Weisweiler and
Marianne Sághy for their careful critiques.
1
Hist. Aug. Gall. 16.4, radiatus saepe processit; cum chlamyde purpurea
gemmatisque fbulis et aureis.
2
Ibid., purpuream tunicam auratamque virilem eandemque manicatam habuit;
gemmato balteo usus est; corrigias gemmeas adnexuit, cum campagos reticulos appellaret.
3
Ibid., Romae […] ubi semper togati principes videbantur.
4
P.M.M. Leunissen, Konsuln und Konsulnre in der Zeit von Commodus bis Severus
Alexander (180–235 n. Chr.) (Amsterdam, 1989), 107–8, 123; P. Eich, Zur Metamorphose
des politischen Systems in der römischen Kaiserzeit: die Entstehung einer ‘personalen
Bürokratie’ im langen dritten Jahrhundert (Berlin, 2005), 341–6.
From Geoffrey Greatrex and Hugh Elton (eds), Shifting Genres in Late Antiquity,
published by Ashgate Publishing. See: http://www.ashgate.com/isbn/9781472443489
© Mariana Bodnaruk (2014)