TCRC e-Journal, August; 2017, Page | 18 Textiles and Clothing Research Centre e-Journal Volume 1, Issue 2, August 2017, pp. 18-21 Types of Zari used for Brocade Weaving Divya Singhal and Simmi Bhagat The term zari is synonymous with textiles having elaborate and rich patterns. Since ancient times, the fascination of people with brocade and zardozi is unmatched. Indian craftsmen were pioneer in producing intricate patterns with use of precious metal threads made of gold and silver. This metal thread was known as zari which has its origin in the Persian term zar meaning gold. Originally zari was made of pure silver gilded with gold. Gradually, due to increasing cost of gold and silver and invention of newer and faster methods of production, changes in the manufacturing process occurred. Artisans started using copper instead of pure silver. Techniques like lacquering, electroplating were being used for production of zari. The present study discusses the developments and innovations in the zari manufacturing industry in India over time and the various types of zari that are produced at present. Methodology The zari industry in India is majorly situated in Surat and Banaras. These two centers cater to the requirements of the domestic market as well as international market for zari. Thus, field study was carried out in these two areas in order to understand the historical background, organization of industry and the manufacturing process of zari. Data collection was done using interviews and observation. Sample selection was purposive; artisans involved in zari manufacturing were selected for interviews. It was observed that the zari making industry exists majorly as a household industry. The industry works through a structure of many decentralised units which are involved in carrying out either one or two processes involved in manufacturing of zari. Availability of space and capital for investment are the main factors which affect the type of unit one runs. Few composite units (family business) are also present. Since the zari making process is fully mechanised now, the traditional zari makers or the artisans are now either the owners of the units, traders or the workers in the units. Three different types of zari are manufactured: Real zari, Imitation zari and Metallic zari. Attempts were made to include respondents from all the facets of the industry and fifteen units were visited. Data was collected from the people who were available and willing to share information with the investigator. Table no. 1 gives the detail of units selected as the sample. § Composite unit: A unit where all the processes of zari manufacturing are carried out under one roof. The units studied under this category were run by families, which have been in the business of zari manufacturing for past two to three generations. The owner of the unit knows the process of zari manufacturing and has workers under him who operatethe machines and are given fixed wages.