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CHAPTER 8
Heritage Food: The Materialization of Connectivity
in Nyonya Cooking
Mareike Pampus
The Baba and Nyonya Culture nurtured in Penang
A culture that is elegant and superbly grand
Forged from Chinese, Malaysian, Western elements
A potpourri of multi-ethnic ingredients. I
Introduction
• •
•
The island of Penang, located on the northern edge of the Straits of Melaka in
Malaysia, is today a multi-ethnic state with a diverse population,
2
each with its
own unique heritage. Penang also refers synonymously to its capital and larg-
est city, George Town, which was founded as a port city in 1786 by the British
East India Company. It was the first British colony in Southeast Asia attracting
migrants from several different regions of the Indian Ocean world, in addition
to European officials and traders.
Port cities such as Penang are often manifestations and microcosms of eth-
nic diversity within a larger state, yet in a far more geographically constrained
space. They are also fertile grounds for the creation of mixed heritages
1 The epigraph consists of the first verse of the poemPenang Baba Culture byJohny Ghee (2oo6).
2 Penang is the only state in Malaysia with a predominantly Chinese population. In zoos, the
Chinese represented 43.01%, the Malays 40.87'Yo, and the Indian population 10.02% of its
population (Sirat, Tan and Subramaniam 2010: 9 ). This statistic takes the state of Penang as
its geographical reference, thus including the island of Penang, as well as a narrow strip of
mainland on the Malay Peninsula (Province Wellesley). Penang is the second smallest state
in Malaysia but has the highest degree of urbanization. In the capital, George Town, the per-
centage of Chinese is even higher compared to the rest of Penang, but there are no current
statistics available. In the rest of Malaysia the Chinese are a minority, comprising 23.4% of the
whole Malaysian state in 2016 (Department of Statistics Malaysia, official portal) <https://
www.dosm.gov.my/VI/index.php?r=column/cone&menu_id=SEFobmolN212cXcsTFILVIVxW
UFXZzo9>.
© KONINKLIJKE BRILL NV, LEIDEN, 2019 I DOI:l0.1163/9789004402713_010