www.iaset.us editor@iaset.us INFLUENCE OF SOCIO-CULTURAL FACTORS ON CRAFT SKILLS OF PATTU WEAVERS OF BARMER, RAJASTHAN Shalu Rustagi Research Scholar, Department of Design, Banasthali Vidyapith University, Vanasthali, Rajasthan, India ABSTRACT Pattu weaving is a traditional craft practiced by Meghwal community in desert region of western Rajasthan mainly in Barmer, Jaisalmer, Bikaner districts. It is an integral part of their social and cultural living that well balances utility with decoration. It was earlier made from locally available wool that helped in protecting from extreme cold in winters and at the same time symbolized the colourful clothing traditions of local communities using it. Pattu weavers, as a part of larger eco-system, have adapted to the changing socio-cultural environment and their craft skills have also evolved according to the social setting and the end-market. The same gets reflected in the design and quality of pattu they weave. This paper assesses the social and cultural factors that have significantly influenced the skills of pattu weavers of Barmer, thus resulting in design evolution of pattu. KEYWORDS: Communities, Design, Meghwal, Pattu, Weaving Article History Received: 26 Jan 2020 | Revised: 05 Feb 2020 | Accepted: 14 Feb 2020 INTRODUCTION Pattu weaving is a local craft of desert region of Rajasthan and the craft is practised by Meghwal community. They are considered to be occupying the lowest status in the social hierarchy among the local communities (Mathur 1986) and are currently classified as scheduled caste by Rajasthan state government. According to Singh (1891), many Meghwals draw their ancestral reference from Rajputs, Jats, Brahmins and Charans; the probable reason for lower ranking in social hierarchy being (i) marriage with lower caste woman, (ii) declared untouchable on lifting of cow carcass (iii) accepting food or water from a Meghwal (iv) hiding for life from Muslim rulers after being defeated. They are also known as Bambi (Singh, 1891). Meghwals are Hindu by religion and are spread over the desert region, both in India and Pakistan. Meghwals were mainly involved in cultivation and hand crafts – leather work, shoe-making, leather tanning, wool spinning and weaving of blankets (Sehgal 2002; Bhagat 2004; Munshi et. al. 1992; Nath & Wacziarg 1987). They used to get involved in weaving during drought time when farming activities could not be done; however over centuries they lost their land to upper caste and weaving became their main means of livelihood. According to Census 1891, more Meghwals were into weaving comparable to leather work (Singh 1891). They wove cloth for the basic needs of the local communities and were paid in kind (Bhagat 2004). Pattu weaving was an important source of sustenance for them. The skills of Pattu weavers have evolved with time as a matter of changing socio-cultural factors. There have been significant happenings that have marked the transition in their pattern of weaving resulting in changes in design of pattu. International Journal of Humanities and Social Sciences (IJHSS) ISSN(P): 2319–393X; ISSN(E): 2319–3948 Vol. 9, Issue 2, Feb–Mar 2020; 27–34 © IASET