International Journal of Advanced Engineering Research and
Science (IJAERS)
Peer-Reviewed Journal
ISSN: 2349-6495(P) | 2456-1908(O)
Vol-8, Issue-10; Oct, 2021
Journal Home Page Available: https://ijaers.com/
Article DOI: https://dx.doi.org/10.22161/ijaers.810.22
www.ijaers.com Page | 194
Analytical Formulation of Breaker Equations
Syawaluddin Hutahaean
Ocean Engineering Program, Faculty of Civil and Environmental Engineering,-Bandung Institute of Technology (ITB), Bandung 40132,
Indonesia
Received: 09 Sep 2021,
Received in revised form: 07 Oct 2021,
Accepted: 15 Oct 2021,
Available online: 22 Oct 2021
©2021 The Author(s). Published by AI
Publication. This is an open access article
under the CC BY license
(https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/).
Keywords— breaker height, breaker
length, and breaker depth equations
Abstract— In this study, equations to calculate breaker height, breaker
length, and breaker depth were formulated. The analytical formulations
were based on the velocity potential of the solution of the Laplace equation.
The substitution of velocity potential to weighted kinematic free surface
boundary condition yielded equation for wave amplitude function. The
dispersion equation was obtained by substituting the velocity potential and
wave amplitude function into the weighted momentum Euler equation. The
relation between breaker height and breaker wavenumber is extracted from
the wave amplitude function. The breaker wavenumber equation was
obtained by substituting this relation into the dispersion equation.
Furthermore, the breaker depth equation obtained was put to the
wavenumber conservation equation with the variables of breaker height
and breaker wavenumber. The breaker wave amplitude equation, the
breaker wavenumber equation, and the breaker depth equation are simple
equations that are very easy to use.
I. INTRODUCTION
There are quite a lot of empirically formulated equations to
calculate the water wave characteristics at the point
breaking wave. These equations are called the breaker
index. There arebreaker height index to calculate breaker
height,breaker depth index to calculate breaker depth with
an input of breaker height, andbreaker length index to
calculate breaker length with the inputs of breaker height
and breaker depth.
Some researchers who put forward equation for the
breaker height index include Le Mehaut and Koh (1967),
Komar and Gaughan (1972), Sunamura and Horikawa
(1974), Singamsetti and Wind (1980), Ogawa and Sutto
(1984), Larson and Kraus (1989a), Smith and Kraus
(1990), Gourlay (1992), and Pittikon and Shibayama
(2000).
Meanwhile, studies dealing with breaker depth index are
conducted by Mc Cowan (1984), Galvin (1969), Collins
and Weir (1969), Goda (1970), Weggel (1972), Sunamura
(1980), Singamsetti and Wind (1980), Seyama and Kimura
(1988), Larson and Kraus (1989b), Smith and Kraus
(1990).
In terms of breaker length index, researchers proposing the
studies include Miche (1944), Battjes and Jansen (1978),
Ostendorf and Madsen (1979), Battjes and Stive (1985),
Kamphuis (1991), Rattanapitikon and Shibayama (2000)
and Rattanapitikon et al. (2003).
This study formulated equations for water wave
characteristics at the point breaking wave based on
hydrodynamic equations including the equations for
breaker height, breaker length, and breaker depth. Using
this method, a relationship among the three is elaborated.
In this research, the wave amplitude function was
formulated using the weighted kinematic free surface
boundary condition and the weighted Euler’s momentum
equation. Hence,there is a weighting coefficient in the
equations of breaker wavenumber, breaker depth, and
shoaling in the dispersion equation. The weighting
coefficient is obtained by calibrating the critical wave
steepness with the critical wave steepness criteria from
Michell (1893), where the critical wave height used is the
maximum wave height from Wiegell (1949; 1964). In
addition to calibrating the critical wave steepness, the
weighting coefficient is also obtained by calibrating the
breaker height with the breaker height from the breaker