Cosmetics 2021, 8, 109. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8040109 www.mdpi.com/journal/cosmetics
Review
Valorization of Wine‐Making By‐Products’ Extracts
in Cosmetics
Israa Hoss
1,†
, Hiba N. Rajha
1,2,
*
,†
, Rindala El Khoury
1
, Sahar Youssef
1
, Maria Letizia Manca
3
, Maria Manconi
3
,
Nicolas Louka
1
and Richard G. Maroun
1
1
Centre d’Analyses et de Recherche, Unité de Recherche Technologies et Valorisations Agro‐Alimentaire,
Faculté des Sciences, Université Saint‐Joseph de Beyrouth, P.O. Box 17‐5208 Riad El Solh,
Beirut 1104 2020, Lebanon; israa.hoss@net.usj.edu.lb (I.H.); rindala.khoury@net.usj.edu.lb (R.E.K.);
sahar.youssef@tamerholding.com (S.Y.); nicolas.louka@usj.edu.lb (N.L.);
richard.maroun@usj.edu.lb (R.G.M.)
2
Ecole Supérieure d’Ingénieurs de Beyrouth (ESIB), Université Saint‐Joseph de Beyrouth, CST Mkalles Mar
Roukos, Riad El Solh, Beirut 1107 2050, Lebanon
3
Centre for Nanobiotechnology Sardinia CNBS, Department of Scienze della Vita e dell’Ambiente,
University of Cagliari, 09124 Cagliari, Italy; mlmanca@unica.it (M.L.M.); manconi@unica.it (M.M.)
* Correspondence: hiba.rajha@usj.edu.lb; Tel.: +961‐78‐821‐568
† Both authors equally contributed.
Abstract: The increased demand for conscious, sustainable and beneficial products by the consum‐
ers has pushed researchers from both industries and universities worldwide to search for smart
strategies capable of reducing the environmental footprint, especially the ones connected with in‐
dustrial wastes. Among various by‐products, generally considered as waste, those obtained by
winemaking industries have attracted the attention of a wide variety of companies, other than the
vineries. In particular, grape pomaces are considered of interest due to their high content in bioac‐
tive molecules, especially phenolic compounds. The latter can be recovered from grape pomace and
used as active ingredients in easily marketable cosmetic products. Indeed, phenolic compounds are
well known for their remarkable beneficial properties at the skin level, such as antioxidant, anti‐
aging, anti‐hyperpigmentation and photoprotective effects. The exploitation of the bioactives con‐
tained in grape pomaces to obtain high value cosmetics may support the growing of innovative
start‐ups and expand the value chain of grapes. This review aims to describe the strategies for re‐
covery of polyphenols from grape pomace, to highlight the beneficial potential of these extracts,
both in vitro and in vivo, and their potential utilization as active ingredients in cosmetic products.
Keywords: cosmetics; grape pomace; phenolic compounds; antioxidants; extracts; natural active in‐
gredient; sustainable development
1. Introduction
Valuable phenolic compounds can be recovered from several edible fruits and vege‐
tables, but also from different food by‐products such as citrus fruits, orange peels [1–3],
lemon peels, pomelo peels [3], grapefruit peels [4] and olive leaves [5–7]. in addition to
pomegranate fruits peels and seeds [8–10], peach pomace [11] and viticulture by‐prod‐
ucts, in particular vine shoots [12–17] and winemaking by‐products, especially grape
pomace [18–22].
Grape by‐products derived from the winery wastes consist mainly of vine stems,
grape pomace and wine lees. Grape pomace is one of the most important residues, con‐
stituting between 20 and 25% of the initial grapes’ weight and composed of 25% seeds,
25% stalks and 50% skins [23,24]. Grape pomace is generated during the winemaking pro‐
cess, after the fermentation step in the case of red grapes, and prior to it in the case of
white grapes (Figure 1) [25]. Considering that 35.9 million tons of grapes are pressed
Citation: Hoss, I.; Rajha, H.N.; El
Khoury, R.; Youssef, S.; Manca, M.L.;
Manconi, M.; Louka, N.;
Maroun, R.G. Valorization of
Wine‐Making By‐Products’ Extracts
in Cosmetics. Cosmetics 2021, 8, 109.
https://doi.org/10.3390/
cosmetics8040109
Academic Editor: Piera Di Martino
Received: 20 October 2021
Accepted: 16 November 2021
Published: 18 November 2021
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