International Journal on Textile Engineering and Processes ISSN 2395-3578 Vol. 5, Issue 1 January 2019 Copyright@CTF- MPSTME 20 Design and development of single end sizing machine for traditional weavers Abdella Simegnaw 1 , Addisu Ferede 2 and Rotech Gideon 3 Ethiopian Institute of Textile and Fashion Design (EITEX) Bahir Dar University, Ethiopia Email: abda0515@gmail.com 1 , addisiotex@gmail.com 2 , rotichgideon2016@gmail.com 3 Abstract Small scale woven fabric manufacturing industries in Ethiopia still use traditional processing, which is complicated warping and sizing. This has lower efficiency and affects the quality of warp yarn. In addition, the current drying of sizing yarn is done using sunlight, which does not give consistency and adequate drying. This work was developed based on the current situation faced by small scale weavers in Ethiopia. The scope includes the design and development of single end sizing machine to provide an effective sizing with lesser time and cost. Two concepts were generated by benchmarking with the existing product and produced with different functions and operating processes for warp yarn sizing machine. The final concept was selected by considering the user’s operating environment and maintenance, which could be used in small scale woven fabric manufacturing industries. Considering the users’ needs and buying capacity, a prototype was fabricated. After the manufacturing of a single-end sizing machine, a functional run-test was carried out and proved to be an alternative effective method of warp sizing. The properties of a single-end sized yarn was compared with traditional sized yarn and the validation of the machine was carried out by the user group; the feedback was positive. Key Words: Single end sizing, Force analysis, Strength analysis I. INTRODUCTION Ethiopia has a rich heritage of craft skills. Handicraft is considered to be one of the most important and widely spread occupations of most Ethiopians next to Agriculture.[1] As part of the handicraft heritage, Ethiopia has diverse traditional handloom products. This sub-sector provides large-scale employment and is an important source of livelihood for a large number of people working on handloom in clusters[2]. The report revealed that there is high potential for Ethiopian handloom products in the European Union countries, particularly in Germany, the UK and France. In order to sustain the handloom sector, it is essential to put in continuous efforts to upgrade the handlooms, to improve the productivity and reduce the fatigue so that the weavers’ earnings are improved. [3] Vital areas include improvements and innovations in process and skill level, which can bring about major changes in the way things are done. It is sometimes forgotten that the handloom sector thrives totally on the skill of the weaver, which provides a technology barrier. [4] The process sequence of traditional weavers starts from warping, sizing, winding, drawing, tying and weaving. These processes are done simultaneously without using any technological knowledge and equipment. In 2013, Jumpei Itagaki at University of Osaka stated that the mechanism of the traditional warping process in Ethiopia for warping thread entails fixing cotton thread (approximately 15 hanks) onto a bamboo tool (Qwoshere). The tips of the thread are taken from each hank and twisted into one strand, and the tool is rotated to create the hank. [5] Normally in Ethiopia, there are two methods of warping thread - pig warping and crisscrossed warping. In the first, two sticks for warping (Denkero, Chahel) and one stick (Ainet) for figure are driven into the ground and the hanks are hung between these sticks to create tension (Fig. 1). The process is repeated until the cloth reaches the desired measurement and it is typical to make 400–420 warp ends for a cloth which has length of 24-36 metres. However, because of the final measurements of the gray cloth that the customer requires, the number of warps threads will vary from time to time. The sample indicated that some types of cloth will require less than 400 warps while some may require more than 450. When warping is complete, the warp thread hanging on the three sticks is rolled into the shape of a hank and tied at the tip. The other method of warping thread involves crisscrossing into the trees [6] and hanging warp over. But these processes inflict problems on the warp yarns, which mostly occur at cross ends, or result in lose warp, snarl formation due to over-tension and unequal length of the yarn. The next process after warping is warp sizing; this sizing process has an impact on the quality characteristics[7], [8] of yarn, which is mainly done to give the yarn enough strength, surface glaze and stiffness so that it can withstand the beating of the reed during the weaving process and also maintain the stiffness necessary for even weaving and a proper look at the warping once the weaving is complete. The sizing process is done only for cotton yarn and is generally done by using a thin paste powder of rice, corn starch or teff. [9] The traditional sizing process involves first heating a huge container on wood fire; when it reaches boiling point, size paste like corn, teff and rice size paste is added. Once the sizing paste is cooked and ready, the cotton yarn, which is in the hank form, is mounted by two wooden rods to keep the hank hanging over the bath and directly immersed into the vessel. The paste is manually stirred using a wooden frame and after the paste is sticky onto the yarn, the sized yarn will be taken out and dried using sunlight. The complete process of the preparation of warp yarn for weaving takes up to two-three consecutive days as shown in Figure 2. However, this process