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In what has been considered one of history’s greatest paradoxes, a taste
for spices is credited with impelling early modern Europeans around the
globe.
1
This apparent contradiction, which highlights seemingly frivolous
desires that transformed the world, stems from a perspective shaped by
historiographical advances and popular traditions that have focused on
consumption in the eighteenth- and nineteenth-century British Empire.
2
By
that period, “sugar and spice / and all that’s nice” had become the essential,
accessible, mundane and commonplace ingredients of “little girls,” to cite a
famous nursery rhyme.
3
Over three centuries, in the words of Sidney Mintz,
sugar had been “transformed from a luxury of kings into the kingly luxury
of commoners.”
4
The same could be said for spices, which became “demysti-
fied” over the sixteenth century, as Stefan Halikowski Smith has argued with
reference to Portuguese trade.
5
By examining courtly rituals, moreover, the
present chapter highlights changes in consumption practices and material
culture in response to an increased supply of spices and shifting demand
for them. Associated with princely wealth and prestige, spices acquired a
symbolic value that would be transferred to other goods.
Since the Middle Ages, the successive, cumulative efforts of Venetian,
Portuguese, Castilian, Dutch and English adventurers who risked their
lives and fortunes overseas, not to mention countless Americans, Africans
and Asians, made sugar and spice ever more abundant and less expensive
in Europe, transforming their uses and meanings. The demand for sugar
and spice has been persistently and convincingly credited with “fueling”
Iberian expansion, initially to compete with the republic of Venice and,
later, stimulating Dutch and British intromissions in Iberian enterprises that
would nourish their own incipient empires.
6
Famously, the fortunes of late
medieval Venice were built upon privileged access to Islamic spice caravans
and maritime control of the Black Sea and western Mediterranean, compli-
cated by the Ottoman Turk’s territorial expansion.
7
Further challenging the
Venetians, though without destroying them, Portuguese mariners, traders
and captains circumnavigated Africa to reach the Indian Ocean and attained
7
Taste Transformed
Sugar and Spice at the Sixteenth-Century
Hispano-Burgundian Court
Bethany Aram
B. Aram et al. (eds.), Global Goods and the Spanish Empire, 1492–1824
© Palgrave Macmillan, a division of Macmillan Publishers Limited 2014