Sustainable technique of quality dye extraction from Juglans regia and Salix alba for textile application Syed Maqbool Geelani a , Rouf Ahmad Bhat a, * , Shoukat Ara a , Naseer A. Mir b , S.J.A. Bhat b , P.K. Mishra c a Division of Environmental Sciences, Sher-e-Kashmir University of Agricultural Sciences and Technology Kashmir, 190025, India b Faculty of Forestry, Sher-e-Kashmir University of Agricultural Sciences and Technology, Shalimar, Kashmir, 190025, India c Department of Chemical Engineering and Technology, IIT (BHU), Varanasi, UP, 221005, India ARTICLE INFO Keywords: Natural dye Mordant Juglans regia Salix alba Sustainable approach ABSTRACT The natural dyes play a prominent role in maintaining the sustainability of any ecosystem due to their eco-friendly characteristics and relative non-toxicity over synthetic dyes. The aim of the present study was to investigate the possible dyeing capacity of the natural dye extracted from leaves of Juglans regia in association with mordant obtained from wood of Salix alba). The efficiency of the dye extraction was tested on wool, pashmina, cotton and silk by pre, instantaneous and post mordanting methods. The quality of the dye and the mordant observed to be the highest (28.88%) for pashmina and lowest for cotton (15.21%). Colour strength and coordinates exhibited the highest (0.886) for pashmina, followed by wool (0.761) and the lowest (0.718) for silk. Fastness grades of all the tested samples observed were mostly good to excellent. The dyed fabrics appeared with great light and dark brown with varying shades, efficacy and retention grades. However, cotton showed no affinity for the dye and mordant. The intermixing of natural dye with mordant in different mordanting methods illuminated their colour qualities with efficacy on tested fabrics. The study revealed that the dyeing ability of J. regia and mordant extracted from S. alba can be utilized commercially for industrial exploration. 1. Introduction Clothing and textiles play a vital role in the industrialization and development of the countries, which also leads to integration into the world economy [1]. The half of the world exports of clothing and textiles are accounted for by a group of low and middle income developing countries, and as such no other manufactured goods class of developing countries hold a position of large net exporting category [2]. Petroleum is one of the cheap sources of synthetic dyes [3]. However, the discovery of the artificial dyes changed the epoch of the textiles altogether and gave passage to environmental pollution, which resulted in the terrible diseases of humankind [4,5]. With the advent of synthetic productivity, people clung over manmade colours and castigated natural dyes [6]. Undoubt- edly, the introduction of synthetic products with multi-colour components has gained a top position but at the same time it is an important source of pollution [7]. Environmental problems from the dyeing of textiles arose after industrialization, when traditional natural dyes were replaced by synthetic dyes [8]. Chemical dyes are prepared to retain the colour for an extended period to get better quality products but simultaneously it degrades the quality of the environment [9]. The untreated effluent discharge from dye industries into the freshwater ecosystems pose long term impacts, hence it is a matter of concern [10]. Synthetic dye extrac- tions are associated with harmful hazards and can damage the environ- mental qualities permanently [11,12]. In textile industries, effluents account for 50% loss of the dyes [13] and are carcinogenic to living or- ganisms’ primarily aquatic animals [14] and humans [15]. Natural dyes can be utilized safely and provide full protection to the environment by releasing environment-friendly constituents [16]. Moreover, these sub- stances are compatible with the environment and are degradable [17]. Numerous research works happening globally intend to find out the effi- cient, cheap and qualitative natural dye sources and extraction to meet the demand. Natural dyes are environmentally safe for production in adequate quantities and their effluents can be easily degraded by adopting biore- mediation approaches. The aim of the present study was to investigate the possible dyeing capacity of the natural dye extracted from leaves of Juglans regia in association with mordant obtained from wood of Salix alba) The dyes extracted from J. regia and S. alba is a first attempt to explored as natural dyeing agents for colouring on fabrics. * Corresponding author. E-mail address: rufi.bhat@gmail.com (R.A. Bhat). Contents lists available at ScienceDirect Current Research in Green and Sustainable Chemistry journal homepage: www.elsevier.com/journals/ current-research-in-green-and-sustainable-chemistry/2666-0865 https://doi.org/10.1016/j.crgsc.2021.100182 Received 27 July 2021; Received in revised form 13 September 2021; Accepted 18 September 2021 Available online 24 September 2021 2666-0865/© 2021 The Author(s). Published by Elsevier B.V. This is an open access article under the CC BY-NC-ND license (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by- nc-nd/4.0/). Current Research in Green and Sustainable Chemistry 4 (2021) 100182