Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 65, 2013
Intertidal Bathymetry Estimation Using Video Images on a Dissipative Beach 1439
Intertidal Bathymetry Estimation Using Video Images on a
Dissipative Beach
Fernando Sobral†, Pedro Pereira‡, Pablo Cavalcanti∞, Rafael Guedes§, Lauro Calliari†
†LOG, Instituto de Oceanografia,
Universidade federal do Rio Grande, Av.
Itália, s/n, km 08, Bairro Carreiros, Rio
Grande, RS, 96203-900, BR.
fcalmon.sobral@gmail.com
lcalliari@log.furg.br
§Department of Earth and Ocean
Sciences, University of Waikato, Private
Bag 3105, Hamilton 3240, NZ.
rmcg1@waikato.ac.nz
‡ Centro de Tecnologia e Geociências,
Departamento de Oceanografia,
Universidade Federal de Pernambuco,
Av. Arquitetura, s/n, Cidade
Universitária, Recife, PE, 50740-550,
BR.
psppraias@gmail.com
∞Instituto de Informática, Universidade
Federal do Rio Grande do Sul, Caixa
Postal 15064, Porto Alegre, RS, 91501-
970, BR.
pgcavalcanti@gmail.com
INTRODUCTION
The nearshore zone dynamism involves many processes acting
at the same time and interacting with each other, making its study
complex. Progress in coastal understanding has been achieved
with physical measurements under natural conditions. However,
the task to deploy instruments at this energetic and hostile
environment is not easy, requiring a careful planning and being
costly.
A solution to that problems is the use of video-based remote
sensing techniques, which allows physical measurements with low
cost and with high spatial and temporal resolutions (Holland et al.,
1997). As time and space scales of the nearshore zone ranges from
1 s or even less for fluid motions to up to years for bathymetric
response, and from 10 m for beach cusps to 100-1000 m for large
scale bar, the video images seem to be a good alternative for the
study of coastal processes. Moreover, the nearshore environment
is replete with optical signatures that can be explored (Holman and
Stanley, 2007), such as sand bars variability (Lippmann and
Holman, 1990), intertidal bathymetry (Plant and Holman, 1997;
Aarninkhof et al., 2003; Vousdoukas et al., 2011), surf zone
bathymetry (Aarninkhof and Ruessink, 2004) and wave
attenuation on muddy bottoms (Pereira et al., 2011) are some
examples of nearshore studies using video images.
Performing remote intertidal bathymetry is an efficient way to
investigate the beach response due to changes in offshore wave
height and sea levels, long term beach evolution and also the
effects of high energetic events. Such information has helped the
scientific community to understand the beach environment. The
aim of this work is to investigate the suitability of video images
associated with a new image processing technique to estimate
intertidal bathymetry on a dissipative beach subjected to a micro-
tidal regime but also affected by high water level fluctuations due
to storm surges.
FIELD SITE
Located at southern Brazil (Figure 1), Cassino beach is a
multiple bar beach system, composed by very fine sand with a
very gentle foreshore slope (β=1:45). Cassino can be defined as a
wave dominated microtidal system (Calliari and Klein, 1993)
having mixed (dominantly diurnal) tides with mean amplitude of
0.47 m (Möller et al., 2001). According to Motta (1963), mean
values of offshore significant wave height (H
s
) and period (T
1/3
)
are 1.5 m and 9 s, respectively. Northeasterly (NE) winds
dominate throughout the year while southwesterly (SW) winds
become more important during fall and winter (Moller et al.,
2001).
The major sea level oscillations at Cassino beach are associated
with storm surges, which can result in 2m water elevations on the
ABSTRACT
Sobral, F.N.C., Pereira, P.S., Cavalcanti, P.G., Guedes, R.M.C., Calliari, L.J., 2013. Intertidal Bathymetry Estimation
Using Video Images on a Dissipative Beach. In: Conley, D.C., Masselink, G., Russell, P.E. and O’Hare, T.J. (eds.),
Proceedings 12
th
International Coastal Symposium (Plymouth, England), Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue
No. 65, pp. 1439-1444, ISSN 0749-0208.
Located at southern of Brazil, Cassino beach is a multiple sandbar beach. A video technique to map intertidal
bathymetry changes was applied using CMYK color model to find the waterline position, hydrodynamic data and runup
2% (R2) parameterizations. Linear regression between waterline video detected and elevation estimated with in situ
measured maximum swash, showed a correlation coefficient of r²=0.82 and r²=0.91, respectively. Rmse values for those
comparison was 10.14 m (horizontal detection) and 0.12 m (elevation). The empirical swash coefficient ( Kosc) was 1.08
with a total error δz of rms=0.25 m and represents a waterline underestimated to compensate the overestimated
horizontal determination. The principal error was found to be at horizontal position, which means that the R2
parameterization was efficient. The estimated bathymetry temporal evolution changes showed a similar morphologic
evolution when compared with beach profile with a total rmse of 0.13 m.
ADDITIONAL INDEX WORDS: Waterline, runup parameterization, storm surge.
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g
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____________________
DOI: 10.2112/SI65-243.1 received 07 December 2012; accepted 06
March 2013.
© Coastal Education & Research Foundation 2013