International Journal zyxwvu of Cosmetic Science zyxwv 18, 87-101 (1996) zyx Preliminary studies towards utilization of various plant extracts as antisolar agents zy M.F.S. RAMOS*, E.P. SANTOS, C.H.B. BIZARRI andH.A. MATTOS Faculdade de F a d c i a , Universidade Federal do Rio de Janeiro, Centro de Ciincias da Salide Bloco K 2” andar sala SO, CEP: 21910-240, Rio de Janeiro, B r a d M.R.S. PADILHA and H.M. DUARTE Instituto de Biologia, Universidade Federal do Rio de Janeiro. B r a d Received 10 August 1995 Keywords: Hamamelis virginiana; Matricaria recutita; Aesculus hippocastanum; Rhamnus purshiana; Cinnamomum zeylanicum; solar protection factor; maceration; microwave Synopsis The aim of this work was to evaluate several plant extracts with regard to ultraviolet absorption spectra in view of a possible application as antisolar agents. Liquid and dry extracts of Hamamelis virginiana, Matricaria recutita, Aesculus hippocastanum, Rhamnus purshiana and Cinnamomum zeylanicum were prepared by repercolation, maceration and microwave oven extraction. W B absorption spectra (290-320nm) were obtained and the solar protection factors (SPF) of these preparations were determined by a spectrophotometric method. The results showed that after incorporation to a 2% solution of the synthetic sunscreen octylmethoxycinnamate, the extracts showed an intensification in SPF values, suggesting that this can be an interesting method to intensify SPF. In addition, these extracts can contribute their emollient and moistening properties to the product. These are important characteristics for protecting skin against exposure to the sun. Rkurnd L’objet de ces travaux est de tester le spectre d’absorption UV de plusieurs extraits vtgttaux, en vue de leur possible utilisation comme filtres solaires. Des extraits fluides et secs d’Hamamelis virginiana, Matricaria recutita, Aesculus hippocastanum, Rhamnus purshiana, et Cinnamomum zeylanicum ont t t t obtenus par percolation, mactration et extraction au four B micro-ondes. Les spectres d’absorption UVB (290-320nm) ont t t t enregistrts et les indices de protection solaire z (IPS) de ces prtparations ont CtC mesurts par une mtthode spectrophotomttrique. Les rtsultats montrent qu’apr8s incorporation une solution B 2% de filtre solaire synthttique (methoxycinnamate d’octyle), les extraits prtsentaient des IPS plus importants, ce qui suggtre qu’il pourrait s’agir d’une bonne mtthode d’intensification des IPS. De plus, les proprittts de ces extraits peuvent apporter une contribution tmolliante et hydratante; caracttristiques importantes de la protection de la peau vis-a-vis du soleil. Introduction Various studies show the great influence of solar radiation on skin. Among these, UVA and UVB are mainly responsible for cutaneous pathologies such as sunburn zy [ 11, cutaneous degeneration, photosensitivity, phototoxicity, actinic elastosis and skin cancer [2]. Skin cancer is undoubtedly the most harmful and troublesome. The incidence of this ‘To whom correspondence should be addressed. 0142-5463 1996 International Journal of’ Cosmetic Science