International Journal of Gastronomy and Food Science 29 (2022) 100588 Available online 19 August 2022 1878-450X/© 2022 The Authors. Published by Elsevier B.V. This is an open access article under the CC BY-NC-ND license (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by- nc-nd/4.0/). Characterization of Cordoba’s perol: Food patrimony and demographic infuence on current customs María Isabel Velasco-Ruiz, Alicia Moreno-Ortega * , Almudena Villegas-Becerril, Rafael Moreno-Rojas Department of Bromatology and Food Technology, University of C´ ordoba, Campus of Rabanales, Building C-1, 14014, C´ ordoba, Spain A R T I C L E INFO Keywords: Survey C´ ordoba Gastronomy Traditional recipe Patrimony Perol (open air picnic) ABSTRACT C´ ordoba is characterized by (among other elements) its excellent gastronomy, in which diverse dishes that are typical of the city can be found. Among these, the C´ ordoba perol stands out, due to certain of its features being different from the rest; it is not only a single dish of gastronomic interest, but also a celebration in the open air, that encourages togetherness. Based on this, a survey has been conducted among the population with the aim to evaluate the impact of this tradition on the inhabitants of C´ ordoba and its surroundings. It studied current el- ements like characteristics, customs, recipes, degree of involvement of the dish in celebrations (festas), and C´ ordoba traditions, as well as the changes in it nowadays with respect to its origins. Thus, 1643 surveys were completed, whose answers enabled the current perol to be characterized and its changes to be studied with respect to the information obtained on its history. It shows that the perol is a very popular dish and is a sign of the identity of the people of Cordoba. 1. Introduction The perol is a deep cooking vessel with two handles that is widely used in Spain and other parts of the world, but it also gives its name to a dish and, in particular, to a rural gastronomic activity that takes place in Cordoba (Spain). The perol is a tasty, popular, and economical dish, but its exact origins are unknown, although it can be affrmed that it is highly related to the Mediterranean liking for food and getting together. This dish, of a popular nature, was originally cooked by simple men, which greatly conditions its identity. It was elaborated in the country in the open air since the perol eaters probably had few earnings or their own land (estates, farms). The fact that its main ingredient was rice, a cheap, humble food is also interesting, as well as the use of seasonal foods to give it its taste, many of them resulting from harvesting or from hunting before the event. (Arenas-Rodríguez and Arenas-Rodríguez, 2002; Guti´ errez-Rodríguez and Jurado-Mora, 2007; Osuna, 2011; Salcedo, 2016; Villegas, 2017). In spite of its popular origin, the higher classes make use of this element of conviviality, for example in monterías (big game hunting), which usually ends the day with a perol (with more exclusive ingredients, such as seafood). C´ ordoba’s culinary tradition stems from its roots in a past in which various cultures converged (Arenas-Rodríguez and Arenas-Rodríguez, 2002; Guti´ errez-Rodríguez and Jurado-Mora, 2007). However, not all rice stews are considered perol. In C´ ordoba, a distinction is made be- tween eating rice stew on a regular daily diet and when it is eaten on a festive occasion in the countryside, when it is called perol. Rice in Spain originates from the era of Al- ´ Andalus, as well as being the frst place in Europe to grow it, and heralding the arrival of cereal to this continent (Azcoytia 2011). The autochthonous ingredients stand out for their excellent quality. These are: olive oil (virgin) from any place in C´ ordoba which, with four “Designations of Origin” extra virgin olive oils) (Mapa de los Aceites, 2016), is the second province with the largest extension of olive tree crops in Spain, the largest producer in the world (FAOSTAT, 2018), and wine, that is added to the dish, or accompanies its con- sumption. Traditionally, these varied ingredients are comprised in two groups, those that are harvested directly in the feld (asparagus, snails, mushrooms, etc.) and those that come from hunting activities before cooking the dish (rabbit, and other meat) (Arenas-Rodríguez and Are- nas-Rodríguez, 2002; Guti´ errez-Rodríguez and Jurado-Mora, 2007). The perol is understood as being something that goes beyond gastronomy and good food, but also includes reuniting people and the “togetherness” characterizing it. In our local gastronomy cooking for festivities and traditions, is linked to religious devotion and Easter, and to other celebrations. The perol is associated with this type of * Corresponding author. E-mail address: t22moora@uco.es (A. Moreno-Ortega). Contents lists available at ScienceDirect International Journal of Gastronomy and Food Science journal homepage: www.elsevier.com/locate/ijgfs https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijgfs.2022.100588 Received 24 May 2022; Received in revised form 8 August 2022; Accepted 15 August 2022