Mushrooms and Economic Botany
1
DAVID ARORA*
,2
AND GLENN H. SHEPARD,JR.
3
2
Dept. of Forest Science, Oregon State University, 3200 Jefferson Way, Corvallis, OR 97331, USA
3
Biological Sciences, University of East Anglia, Norwich, U.K.
*Corresponding author; e-mail: arora_david@yahoo.com
Mushroom. Fungus. Toadstool. Depending on
the context and the company, these words may
evoke chuckles, raised eyebrows, an avaricious
gaze, frowns of apprehension, legal censure, or
murmurs of delight. A haiku by Shigetaka (cited
in Arora 1991) celebrates the matsutake (“pine
mushroom”) as an almost erotic fantasy come
true:
It is no dream
matsutake are growing
on the belly of the mountain
Russian writer Konstantin Paustovskiy evokes
the sensory experience of mushroom gathering:
“The mushroom-scented air of the birch groves is
far dearer than the fragrance of the magnolia”
(cited in Arora 1991:262).
The British poet Percy Bysshe Shelley (cited in
Arora 1986:2), by contrast, portrays wild mush-
rooms as embodiments of death and decay:
And agarics and fungi, with mildew and mould
Started like mist from the wet ground cold
Pale, fleshy, as if the decaying dead
With a spirit of growth had been animated
The tendency to use the word “mushroom”
pejoratively persists widely in modern English. To
paraphrase the late Stephen Jay Gould, prosperity
and the arts “flower” while urban crime “mush-
rooms.” Many people in the United States are
familiar with the schoolyard rhyme, “There’sa
fungus among us/And we must stamp it out!!”
How different is the sense of awe and wonder
expressed in a Nahuatl saying from Morelos,
Mexico: Tlategüini, xcaguigan, in mogüitlaxcactia
in nanagamé—“It is thundering, listen you all,
the mushrooms are putting on their shoes” (de
Avila and Guzman 1980:312).
Jared Diamond (1989:19), who has spent years
documenting the detailed botanical and zoological
knowledge of the Foré people of New Guinea,
admits to a sudden sense of apprehension when his
hosts served him forest mushrooms:
[We] were starving in the jungle... one of the men
brought in a large rucksack full of mushrooms that
he had found and started to roast. Dinner at last! But
then I had an uncomfortable thought: what if the
mushrooms were poisonous?.. [I told them that]
although we were all hungry, it just wasn’t worth the
risk. At that point my companions got angry and
told me to shut up and listen while they explained
some things to me. After I had been quizzing them
for years about the names of birds and frogs, how
could I insult them by assuming they didn’t have
names for different mushrooms? Only Americans
could be so stupid as to confuse safe and poisonous
mushrooms. They went on to lecture me about 29
types of edible mushrooms, of which 15 grew on
trees and 14 grew on the ground.
The irony is clear: even someone who has
made a career of studying and eulogizing
native knowledge about the biological world
is not immune to a cultural taboo so powerful
that he was willing to endure hunger while
offending his hosts’ intelligence and refusing
their generosity.
By contrast, many mushroom hunters lack
generosity when it comes to revealing the
locations of their favorite mushroom patches.
And legend has it among the Bisa people of
central Africa that their ancestors split into
different groups, one called the Mushroom Clan,
because some of them refused to share edible
mushrooms with the others (Merrett 2008).
Economic Botany, 62(3), 2008, pp. 207–212
© 2008, by The New York Botanical Garden Press, Bronx, NY 10458-5126 U.S.A.
1
Published online 29 October 2008.