Appl Phys A (2013) 112:469–478 DOI 10.1007/s00339-012-7435-z Physicochemical characterization of thermally aged Egyptian linen dyed with organic natural dyestuffs N. Kourkoumelis · H. El-Gaoudy · E. Varella · D. Kovala-Demertzi Received: 29 May 2012 / Accepted: 9 November 2012 / Published online: 20 November 2012 © Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg 2012 Abstract A number of organic natural dyestuffs used in dyeing in ancient times, i.e. indigo, madder, turmeric, henna, cochineal, saffron and safflower, have been used to colour Egyptian fabrics based on linen. Their physicochemical properties have been evaluated on thermally aged linen sam- ples. The aged dyed linen samples were thoroughly exam- ined by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), scanning electron microscopy (SEM), X-ray diffraction (XRD) and tensile strength and elongation measurements. It was found that, in the molecular level, dyes interact mainly with the cellulose compounds of the aged linen while in the macroscopic level tensile and elongation parameters are altered. Tensile strength is positively related to the dye treat- ment while elongation depends specifically on the type of the dye used. Results converge that the dyed textiles did in- deed play a role as protecting agents affecting strength and reducing thermal deterioration. N. Kourkoumelis ( ) Department of Physics, University of Ioannina, 45110 Ioannina, Greece e-mail: nkourkou@cc.uoi.gr H. El-Gaoudy · D. Kovala-Demertzi Department of Chemistry, University of Ioannina, 45110 Ioannina, Greece D. Kovala-Demertzi e-mail: dkovala@cc.uoi.gr H. El-Gaoudy Department of Restoration, Egyptian Museum, Ministry of Antiquities, Cairo, Egypt E. Varella Department of Chemistry, Aristotle University of Thessaloniki, 54124 Thessaloniki, Greece 1 Introduction Textiles are an important part of cultural studies since they represent a significant aspect of craft manifestation directly related to people’s culture. Prehistoric and ancient items have given noteworthy indirect evidence related to textiles found in sculptures, paintings and literature [1]. Linen is one of the earliest products used for fiber production dating back thousands of years BCE. The majority of ancient Egyp- tian textiles are of linen which is made from the bast fiber, flax [2]. Textile fibers are subject to a number of artificial ageing processes like photochemical and thermal degrada- tion and chemical and bacterial attack. Heat treatment of cel- lulose results in cross linking between two hydroxyl groups of two cellulose chains making the textile stiffer. Further- more, chain scission of the cellulose polymer is caused by a free-radical thermal oxidation reaction in a similar way to photo-oxidation. In acid environments, bonds scission is enhanced. Aqueous conservation treatments involve de- acidification procedures where high alkalinity can result in faster degradation during the ageing process [3]. Thermal deterioration is also accelerated in the presence of moisture and catalysts. It has been suggested [4] that transition met- als act as catalysts for the oxidative degradation of cellu- lose. Dyes are among the most significant components in works of art and archaeological findings [5]. Natural dyes and dyestuffs are as old as textiles themselves. The oldest written record of natural dye usage is in China originating from 2600 BCE [6]. The importance of natural dyestuff ma- terials during prehistory and even in historical times is well known and a good-quality dye was considered to be as valu- able as precious metals [7, 8]. The aim of this work is the study and the evaluation of the effect of some organic dyestuffs used in ancient Egypt on the chemical and physical properties of linen fibers and