Citation: Cardin, M.; Cardazzo, B.;
Mounier, J.; Novelli, E.; Coton, M.;
Coton, E. Authenticity and Typicity
of Traditional Cheeses: A Review on
Geographical Origin Authentication
Methods. Foods 2022, 11, 3379.
https://doi.org/10.3390/
foods11213379
Academic Editors: Andrea Marchetti
and Simona Sighinolfi
Received: 3 October 2022
Accepted: 22 October 2022
Published: 26 October 2022
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foods
Review
Authenticity and Typicity of Traditional Cheeses: A Review on
Geographical Origin Authentication Methods
Marco Cardin
1,2
, Barbara Cardazzo
1,
*, Jérôme Mounier
2
, Enrico Novelli
1
, Monika Coton
2
and Emmanuel Coton
2
1
Department of Comparative Biomedicine and Food Science, University of Padova, Viale Università 16,
35020 Legnaro, PD, Italy
2
Univ Brest, INRAE, Laboratoire Universitaire de Biodiversité et Écologie Microbienne,
F-29280 Plouzané, France
* Correspondence: barbara.cardazzo@unipd.it
Abstract: Food fraud, corresponding to any intentional action to deceive purchasers and gain an
undue economical advantage, is estimated to result in a 10 to 65 billion US dollars/year economical
cost worldwide. Dairy products, such as cheese, in particular cheeses with protected land- and
tradition-related labels, have been listed as among the most impacted as consumers are ready to
pay a premium price for traditional and typical products. In this context, efficient food authen-
tication methods are needed to counteract current and emerging frauds. This review reports the
available authentication methods, either chemical, physical, or DNA-based methods, currently used
for origin authentication, highlighting their principle, reported application to cheese geographical
origin authentication, performance, and respective advantages and limits. Isotope and elemental
fingerprinting showed consistent accuracy in origin authentication. Other chemical and physical
methods, such as near-infrared spectroscopy and nuclear magnetic resonance, require more studies
and larger sampling to assess their discriminative power. Emerging DNA-based methods, such as
metabarcoding, showed good potential for origin authentication. However, metagenomics, providing
a more in-depth view of the cheese microbiota (up to the strain level), but also the combination of
methods relying on different targets, can be of interest for this field.
Keywords: cheese; geographical origin; authentication; next-generation sequencing; volatilome;
isotopic analysis; trace element analysis; infrared fingerprinting
1. Introduction
The shared definition of food fraud relates to intentional illegal acts performed by
food value chain operators for economic gain [1]. More specifically, in the framework of the
European agri-food chain legislation, food fraud is defined as “any suspected intentional
action by businesses or individuals for the purpose of deceiving purchasers and gaining
undue advantage therefrom, in violation of the rules referred to in Article 1(2) of Regulation
(EU) 2017/625” [2]. Behind the term “food fraud”, multiple practices designed to deceive
purchasers, which are categorized under the following denominations: (i) substitution,
(ii) concealment, (iii) dilution, (iv) unapproved enhancement, (v) counterfeit, (vi) grey
market/forgery, and finally, (vii) mislabeling, exist. Substitution corresponds to total or
partial replacement of a food, including ingredients or nutrients, with one of lower value.
Concealment hides the low quality of food ingredients or food products. Dilution is self-
explanatory and corresponds to the action of mixing a high-value ingredient with a lower
one, while unapproved enhancement improves food quality by adding undeclared or un-
known ingredients. These four food fraud types are grouped under the term “adulteration”.
Counterfeit refers to the infringement of Intellectual Property Rights via replication of a
product or its packaging, while grey market or forgery corresponds to production, theft,
Foods 2022, 11, 3379. https://doi.org/10.3390/foods11213379 https://www.mdpi.com/journal/foods